π Updated 21 Jun 2026
Most people come to Chachoengsao to pay respects to Luang Pho Sothon and then head straight home, even though just a few kilometres from the temple there's a riverside old town that has held onto almost all of its overseas-Chinese community atmosphere. Ban Mai Market was once a busy river trading port, but once the roads cut through, river trade dried up and the market fell quiet for decades, before it was revived into a walking district that locals in Chachoengsao are proud of.
Where is the century-old Ban Mai Market, and why go?
Ban Mai Market sits on the west bank of the Bang Pakong River, on Suphakit Road in Ban Mai sub-district, Mueang Chachoengsao district. It's an old trading quarter dating back to the reign of King Rama V, more than a hundred years old. What sticks with people is the long, unbroken row of two-storey timber shophouses, many of which are still working shops rather than just photo backdrops. Walk in and you catch the smell of old wood, the aroma of traditional coffee, and the easy, friendly greetings of the locals.
This market has been the filming location for several period dramas and films, because the timber houses still look much as they always did, which is rare these days. It suits anyone who likes grazing as they walk, taking photos, and picking up souvenirs without stepping into a mall.
Which day to go
The market is open daily from 8am to 5pm, but on weekdays few shops open and it's quiet. If you want most shops open and a lively feel, go on a Saturday, Sunday or public holiday. Late morning to mid-afternoon is the sweet spot, when it isn't too hot.
Want more out of Chachoengsao? Book tours & activities
Booking online ahead on Klook or GetYourGuide is usually cheaper than the gate and skips the queue. Pick only the experiences you actually want β prices and availability are shown live on each site.
Food in the market that won't let you down
The charm of Ban Mai Market lies in its long-running local food, some of which is getting hard to find elsewhere. We've picked out the spots that reviewers mention often and that are genuinely still open.
Pae Oei (traditional coffee shop)
An old coffee shop in the market that has brewed traditional sock-filter coffee for decades. The interior feels frozen forty years ago, with wooden chairs and porcelain cups. Order a hot coffee or an oliang (iced black coffee) and sip it as the perfect start to the day.
Ban Pa Nu
A Thai-seafood restaurant in an old timber house on the Bang Pakong River, with clear river views, a seasonal menu and fresh seafood. Open daily 10amβ9pm, it's great for a long lunch watching the boats pass by.
Som Tam Ban Captain
An Isan restaurant on the river inside the market, with several styles of som tam (papaya salad), grilled pork neck, salt-and-chilli grilled chicken, spicy pork rib soup and catfish larb, all bold flavours that go down easy with sticky rice.
Charcoal oyster omelette & pad thai
Classic snacks you'll find at several stalls in the market. Crispy-edged, soft-centred oyster omelette and egg-wrapped pad thai made fresh at the stall, easy to eat as you stroll.
Charcoal-baked egg cakes
An old-fashioned cake baked over charcoal, fragrant, crisp on top and soft inside, made fresh in front of you. A snack to eat on the spot or take home as a souvenir.
Lotus-leaf wrapped rice
Fragrant Chinese-style fried rice wrapped in lotus leaf, a dish tied to the area's old Chinese community. Wrapped in handy portions, it's good to grab and eat as you walk.
Red Cat Cafe
A cute riverside cafe in the market. The talked-about menu items are the nipa-palm americano and the Black Forest cake, with a per-person spend under a hundred baht, perfect for resting your legs after walking the market.
How to eat your way through it all
The market isn't very long and you can finish a loop in half a day. The trick is to eat a little at many shops rather than filling up at the first one, so you get to try lots of local dishes, then finish with coffee or a riverside cafe.
Souvenirs worth taking home
Chachoengsao is known for several souvenirs. Some you can find in Ban Mai Market and the shops in the old town; others mean a stop at specialist shops in town.
- Chachoengsao mooncakes (khanom pia) β the province's signature souvenir, with a generous filling and thin pastry. Several old-established makers in town, and they keep for several days.
- Mangoes and orchard fruit β Chachoengsao is mango country. During mango season (roughly MarchβMay) you'll find nam dok mai and other varieties sent straight from the orchards and sold in the market.
- Mu tup & mu yo β crispy pounded pork and pork sausage, popular snacks and souvenirs in this region, found at shops around the district and the market.
- Charcoal-baked old-fashioned sweets β egg cakes and traditional treats made fresh in the market, which you can box up to take home.
- Roast-and-ground traditional coffee β some old coffee shops sell traditionally roasted coffee grounds to take home and brew yourself.
Walking the old town around the market
Beyond the market itself, there's more old town to explore nearby, with timber shophouses, Chinese shrines and views of the Bang Pakong River that is the lifeblood of the town. If you have time, it's worth wandering to soak up the atmosphere, take photos and drop by these spots close by.
Bang Pakong River embankment
A riverside walkway in town with views of the bridge and the boats, good for an evening stroll catching the breeze off the river.
Shrines and old Chinese shophouses
Traces of the overseas-Chinese community that settled along the river, with old-style architecture and colours that are great to photograph.
Wat Sothon Wararam Worawihan
The town's landmark temple, home to Luang Pho Sothon, just a few kilometres from the old town, easy to add on for a temple visit in the same trip.
Getting there and parking
Chachoengsao is about 80 km from Bangkok, roughly an hour and a half by car on easy highways, or you can take the Eastern Line train from Bangkok (Hua Lamphong) station to Chachoengsao station for the experience. The station is in town, and it's a short hop by songthaew or motorbike taxi to the old town and market.
- By car β from Bangkok via the motorway or Highway 304/314, about 1.5 hours, good if you want to visit several spots in one day.
- By train β the Eastern Line passes through Chachoengsao, tickets are cheap, great for those who enjoy the atmosphere and don't want to drive.
- Parking β the private lot across from the market is the most convenient, around ΰΈΏ30β40 per day, and there's a parking area under the railway bridge over the Bang Pakong River.
- Public transport in town β songthaews and motorbike taxis run around town, handy for connecting from the train station.
Straight talk
If you come on a weekday, don't expect it to be lively. Many shops are closed and it's very quiet, which suits anyone who likes calm and open, uncrowded photos. But if you want the full spread of food and some buzz, come on a Saturday or Sunday, and brace for the strong midday sun too.
Plan a full day in Chachoengsao with the market, temples and riverside all covered
See the Chachoengsao travel guide β