🔄 Updated 21 Jun 2026
"Hoi kha" isn't the name of a recipe or a type of noodle — it's how you sit to eat it. Shops along the Nan River in downtown Phitsanulok place their seats right on the edge of the bank, and customers sit with their legs dangling over the water. The river breeze keeps you cool, and you can watch the bridges over the Nan and the boats passing under them. Some shops have been going for decades, to the point where out-of-towners now make the trip specifically to eat here. Say the word "Phitsanulok" and this is the picture many people see first.
Most of the noodles fall into two camps: tom yum noodles and Sukhothai-style noodles (a clear broth that leans sweet, with yardlong beans and red pork). A few shops also do boat noodles, braised pork and snacks like pork-topped toast. Prices start at a little over 30 THB a bowl and run up to 70–75 THB for a special, so it's an easy spend — with a riverside view thrown in for free.
The hoi kha shops people actually go to
We've ordered these by how well known and how easy to reach they are from the city centre, not purely by taste — each shop is a little different and it comes down to whether you prefer the sweet-leaning style or a sharper tom yum. Just pick the one that fits where you are and what day it is.
Kuaytiao Hoi Kha Rim Nan (Je Daeng)
The first place most people think of when hoi kha in Phitsanulok comes up. It's a Thai-style wooden house right on the riverbank, about 300 metres from Wat Yai and walkable. The standouts are thin-noodle Sukhothai tom yum, dry thin-noodle Sukhothai yum, and the pork-topped toast plenty of people order on the side. The flavour leans sweet, Sukhothai style. The dangling-leg seats over the water are a popular photo spot.
Kuaytiao Hoi Kha Pa Kathin
A spot many people credit as the original hoi kha of Phitsanulok, running for several decades. The flavour is homey and unflashy but easy to eat, and very cheap. It has since moved to the Ratchaphruek square area behind Ratchaphruek Hotel. If you want the old-school, legendary shop, this is the one.
Kuaytiao Hoi Kha Ton Nam
Another riverside spot with a relaxed feel — you really do sit with your legs dangling over the water, true to the name. There's both pork and beef noodles, and you season to taste yourself. Locals like to settle in here for a long afternoon because the river breeze is so pleasant.
Kuaytiao Hoi Kha Phitsanulok Song Khwae
A riverside shop that opens early, good for early risers who want a first meal by the water before heading out. The menu is varied — tom yum, clear broth and dry — and the seating dangles over the river like the others.
Khrua Khiang Nam
A friendly, casual shop right on the Nan River in the Hua Ro area, and the cheapest of the bunch — bowls start at 25 THB. If you're on a budget and just want to eat without overthinking it, this is the one. It sells out fast because it gets busy, so come a bit earlier to be sure.
Kuaytiao Ruean Mai (Rim Bo)
Not on the Nan itself, but it has dangling-leg seating over a pond — shady and private. There's both pork and beef noodles, loaded with toppings you can pick and choose. Good if you want to skip the bustle of the riverside shops.
Kuaytiao Tom Yum Hoi Kai
Known for tom yum with an egg, sharper than the sweet-leaning shops. If you like a rich, sour-spicy broth you'll be happy here. There's seating with a view of the river and the town — a solid pick for anyone who wants their tom yum bold.
Kuaytiao Rim Wang (Wang Thong)
Outside the city in Wang Thong district, Din Thong subdistrict, near the Khao Lam Bridge. You dangle your legs over the Wang River instead of the Nan. It's old-style Thai noodles plus tom yum, cheap, and a handy stop on the way to the waterfalls or Khao Kho.
Ban Kuaytiao Hoi Kha (Sadao Tan)
An easygoing, homey shop with casual dangling-leg seating and standard noodles at gentle prices. Good for anyone who wants to try hoi kha without queueing at the famous spots.
How to get both the view and a good seat
The dangling-leg seats right at the water's edge are limited, and that front row is exactly what everyone wants. To actually land a riverside spot, aim for 10–11am before the lunch crowd floods in, or late afternoon after 2pm once it starts to thin out. Many shops close around 16:00 and some shut early once they sell out, so don't leave it too late.
Want to taste deeper? Try a Phitsanulok food tour or cooking class
Half a day with a local who knows the lanes — or cooking a dish yourself — teaches you more than just eating. Book ahead on Klook or GetYourGuide.
What to order when you go for hoi kha
The signature at almost every hoi kha shop in Phitsanulok is tom yum noodles and Sukhothai-style noodles. On a first visit, try both — that's the clearest way to get a feel for the local flavour.
- Thin-noodle Sukhothai tom yum — a tom yum broth with ground peanuts and sugar, sour-sweet and well balanced. It's the most-ordered bowl.
- Clear-broth Sukhothai noodles — a clear, sweet-leaning broth with sliced yardlong beans, red pork and peanuts. Go for this if you don't like things sour or spicy.
- Dry Sukhothai yum — the dry version tossed in seasonings, bold-flavoured and easy to finish without filling up on broth. Good on a hot day.
- Pork-topped toast — the popular snack at the riverside shops: seasoned minced pork on crispy fried bread. Order it to nibble while you wait.
- Kao lao / special — watching your carbs? Order kao lao (no noodles), or go for a special with a bit more meat.
Half-day trip: Wat Yai + riverside hoi kha
Most hoi kha shops sit close to Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat (Wat Yai), which makes for a tidy half-day that combines paying respects with a bowl of noodles. Here's an order that's easy to walk, no rushing.
Pay respects to Phra Phuttha Chinnarat + a late hoi kha breakfast
Browse the market + pick up dried-banana souvenirs
Straight talk before you go
Hoi kha noodles are homey and sweet-leaning, not the bold, rich noodles you get in Bangkok. If you come expecting something really punchy, you might find it a bit underwhelming. The real charm is the experience of sitting with your legs over the river and the very gentle prices. Come to soak up the rhythm of this riverside town and take some photos, and you'll have a better time than if you're only chasing flavour.
Plan a full Phitsanulok trip — food, sights and where to stay
See the Phitsanulok travel guide →