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🏛️ Phetchabun attractions · Lom Sak

Mueang Rat–Pho Khun Pha Mueang Memorial
A history stop on the drive up the mountain

Most people drive straight past the Pho Khun Pha Mueang Junction as they turn off to climb up to Khao Kho or Phu Thap Boek, never realizing there's a story here that reaches all the way back to the founding of Sukhothai. If you can spare 20–30 minutes, you'll get to know a man called "Pho Khun Pha Mueang," ruler of Mueang Rat, who governed this corner of Lom Sak around 700 years ago. This page walks you through both the monument at the junction and the newer Mueang Rat Memorial out in Ban Wai, and tells you honestly what to expect.

🏛️ Sukhothai history🚗 Roadside stop⛰️ Before Khao Kho & Phu Thap Boek
Mueang Rat–Pho Khun Pha Mueang Memorial A history stop on the drive up the mountain

🔄 Updated 21 Jun 2026

When people picture Phetchabun, they think of the sea of fog at Khao Kho, the flower fields of Phu Thap Boek, or Wat Pha Sorn Kaew. But before reaching any of those, nearly every car passes through the same spot: the Pho Khun Pha Mueang Junction in Lom Sak district, where Highway 21 (Saraburi–Lom Sak) crosses Highway 12 (Phitsanulok–Lom Sak). This is the turnoff up the mountain, and it's the site of the monument that gave the junction its name.

It's not a place you'd spend a whole day — it's more of a short stop. But once you understand why the monument is here, the drive up the mountain afterward feels a lot more meaningful.

Who was Pho Khun Pha Mueang, and why does he matter?

Pho Khun Pha Mueang was the ruler of Mueang Rat, an ancient city believed to have stood in the Lom Sak–Lom Kao area of present-day Phetchabun. Around the 13th century (roughly 700 years ago), he joined forces with his friend Pho Khun Bang Klang Hao, ruler of Mueang Bang Yang, to drive Khmer power out of the Sukhothai lands.

What many people find striking is what happened after the victory: rather than crowning himself king — which he had every right to do — Pho Khun Pha Mueang handed the throne to his friend to rule Sukhothai instead, bestowing on him the royal title "Si Inthrabodinthrathit." It's this act of stepping aside that earned him a reputation for sacrifice, and it's why the people of Phetchabun built the monument as a place to honor him.

A small note

The name "Mueang Rat" appears in the Sukhothai stone inscriptions, and some historians believe it refers to this very area of Lom Sak. That's why the newer memorial is named after "Mueang Rat" the place, not just the man.

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Two spots with similar names — don't mix them up

Lom Sak has two sites honoring Pho Khun Pha Mueang, and the names are close enough that people confuse them all the time. Sort them out before you set off.

At the Hwy 21×12 junction

Pho Khun Pha Mueang Monument

A standing bronze figure, his right hand planting a sword into the ground, set in the middle of the roundabout at the Pho Khun Pha Mueang Junction (where Hwy 21 meets Hwy 12). This is the most-photographed spot, right at the turnoff up the mountain.

Ban Wai, Lom Sak

Mueang Rat Memorial

The newer site, out in Ban Wai a short way from the center of Lom Sak. It has a courtyard with a statue for paying respects plus a museum building telling the story of Mueang Rat — better suited to anyone who wants the information on display.

If you're short on time and just want a photo before heading up, stopping at the monument at the junction is enough. But if you're genuinely into the history and want to walk through a museum, drive on to the Mueang Rat Memorial in Ban Wai as well.

What's there to see at the Mueang Rat Memorial

The Mueang Rat Memorial in Ban Wai covers about 8 rai (roughly 1.3 hectares), split into two main parts that you can easily walk through within an hour.

  • The statue courtyard — a standing figure of Pho Khun Pha Mueang, with the base around it depicting his deeds on all four sides. Locals come here to pay their respects and hold ceremonies during the annual festival.
  • The museum building — displays covering his life, the campaign to drive out the Khmer, the history of building the memorial, and ancient tools and objects unearthed in Phetchabun, such as bangles and stone blades that reflect prehistoric life in the area.
  • The Mueang Rat learning corner — lays out why Lom Sak is linked to the name "Mueang Rat" in the stone inscriptions. It's information that's genuinely hard to find anywhere else.

Check before you go

The museum building is sometimes closed outside office hours, or only opens when staff are on hand. It's worth calling ahead — try the Phetchabun Provincial Administrative Organization, or the caretaker on 082-547-2412 — before driving out, so you don't make the trip for nothing. The outdoor courtyard is open as usual, with no entry fee.

Why it makes such a natural stop

The real appeal here isn't just the monument itself — it's the location. The Pho Khun Pha Mueang Junction sits around the 261 km marker on Highway 21, and it's the point where you turn left onto Highway 12 to climb up to Khao Kho (about another 24 km) or continue on to Phu Thap Boek. Put simply, almost every car heading up the mountain passes right through here anyway.

  • Stretch your legs before the bends — the climb up Khao Kho is one continuous string of curves. Stopping here for a 15-minute walk before you start the ascent helps anyone prone to carsickness.
  • Fuel up and use the restroom — the junction area and Lom Sak town have gas stations and convenience stores. It's a good place to stock up before heading up the mountain, where everything costs more.
  • A photo to kick off the trip — the figure in the middle of the roundabout is the landmark that says, "You've reached Lom Sak — the mountain's coming up next."

Where to go next nearby

Since it sits right at the mouth of the road up the mountain, stopping here opens up several directions. Pick based on where you're headed.

Getting there and how long to allow

Coming from Bangkok, take Highway 21 north past the city of Phetchabun until you reach the Pho Khun Pha Mueang Junction in Lom Sak. The monument is right on the roundabout at the junction — you can't miss it. The Mueang Rat Memorial in Ban Wai is about 3 km from the center of Lom Sak, with signs pointing the way.

  • Private car — the easiest option; you can pull over and take photos by the roundabout, but watch for fast-moving traffic at the junction.
  • Public transport — buses and vans on the Lom Sak route drop you in town, and from there you can take a songthaew or motorcycle taxi to the various spots.
  • Time to allow — 15–20 minutes is plenty for photos at the monument; allow about an hour if you also want to walk through the museum at Ban Wai.

Straight from us

Don't go expecting a major half-day attraction. It's a good, historically meaningful stop — better as something you fold into the drive up the mountain than as a destination on its own. Anyone who loves stories and history will come away with plenty; anyone here purely for the views might find it a bit flat.

Plan a full Khao Kho–Lom Sak trip — sea of fog and local food included

See the Phetchabun travel guide →

FAQ

Are the Mueang Rat Memorial and the Pho Khun Pha Mueang Monument different places?

Yes, they're two separate spots. The Pho Khun Pha Mueang Monument is the standing figure in the middle of the roundabout at the Pho Khun Pha Mueang Junction (where Highway 21 crosses Highway 12). The Mueang Rat Memorial is the newer site in Ban Wai, with a courtyard for paying respects and a museum building. Both are in Lom Sak district, not far apart.

Is there an entry fee, and what are the opening hours?

The courtyard and the outdoor monument are free to visit as usual. The museum building in Ban Wai sometimes only opens when staff are on hand, so it's best to call ahead — try the caretaker on 082-547-2412 or ask the Phetchabun Provincial Administrative Organization.

Does stopping here take long? Is it worth the stop?

Just pulling over for photos at the monument takes 15–20 minutes; allow about an hour if you include the museum in Ban Wai. It's well worth it for anyone already heading up to Khao Kho or Phu Thap Boek, since it's right on the way and you get to learn the area's history along the way.

Is it right at the turnoff up to Khao Kho?

Yes. The Pho Khun Pha Mueang Junction is where you turn left onto Highway 12 to climb up to Khao Kho, which is about another 24 km up. Nearly every car heading up the mountain passes through this point anyway, so you can stop without going out of your way.

What time of year is best to stop by?

You can stop any time of year since it's a place you pass through. But if you want to continue up to Khao Kho or Phu Thap Boek for the sea of fog, November through February is the coolest, with the thickest fog. In the rainy season (June–September), Highway 12 is lush and green and often misty too.

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