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Phu Phan Kham Lakeside Chill Plan
Grilled Fish, Lake Views, Slow Days

The eastern edge of Nong Bua Lamphu is Phu Phan Kham, a ridge that runs along the lake above Ubolratana Dam in Non Sang district. This isn't a place where you race to tick off landmarks — it's the kind of spot made for an unhurried weekend. Head up to a high viewpoint in the morning, sit down to grilled fish by the water at midday, then wait for the sun to drop over the lake in the evening. We've laid it out as an easy 2-day plan: walk slow, eat slow.

🌅 Views over the dam🐟 Grilled fish by the lake🧘 Slow living, no rush
Phu Phan Kham Lakeside Chill Plan Grilled Fish, Lake Views, Slow Days

🔄 Updated 21 Jun 2026

Nong Bua Lamphu is a small province, and most people just pass through on the way to Udon Thani or Khon Kaen. But the Non Sang side, right up against the lake above Ubolratana Dam, is quiet, peaceful, and has views that punch well above the province's reputation. The lake is so wide that from some angles you can't see the far shore, with the Phu Phan Kham ridge as a backdrop. It suits anyone who wants to escape the noise and just sit by the water for a day or two. This plan starts from Nong Bua Lamphu town, and driving yourself is by far the easiest way, since the spots are spread out along the shore and no public transport runs out there.

Why come to the Phu Phan Kham side

Phu Phan Kham is the ridge on the eastern side of the province, part of Phu Kao–Phu Phan Kham National Park, which straddles Nong Bua Lamphu, Udon Thani, and Khon Kaen. The draw is the high vantage points that look straight down onto the lake above Ubolratana Dam. Down at the waterline, small open-sided Isan eateries serve fish caught from the lake itself, and in the evening the water glows orange as the sun sets — a sight locals see all the time but visitors tend to find a thrill.

  • The views really are wide — the lake above Ubolratana Dam is a huge body of water, and from up high it stretches out with little islands poking up here and there.
  • Fresh fish — the lakeside places get their fish straight from the lake, so grilled fish, fried fish, and tom yum fish all taste of the water they came from.
  • Few crowds — compared with the popular Isan spots, this side is still quiet. On weekdays some places have almost no one, which is perfect if you want calm.
  • Close enough to town — from Nong Bua Lamphu town it's about 30–45 minutes to the Non Sang side. You can do it as a day trip, but staying overnight gets you both the evening and the morning.
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Spots around the lake worth stopping for

Viewpoint

Phu Aen Skywalk

A glass walkway jutting out from the Phu Aen cliff with a panoramic view of the lake above Ubolratana Dam. It's inside Phu Kao–Phu Phan Kham National Park in Ban Kho subdistrict, Non Sang, and it's the main viewpoint on this side.

Photo spot

Chong Khao Khat Viewpoint

A high point on the Phu Phan Kham ridge looking down on the dam and the wide water. It's a long-time favorite among locals for sunset photos, sitting right on the Nong Bua Lamphu–Khon Kaen boundary.

Waterside

Non Yao Beach

A freshwater beach on the lake in Khok Yai subdistrict, Non Sang. It's a wide open space good for a picnic, with mountains as a backdrop — an easy place to just sit by the water.

Nature

Huai Nam Bong Reservoir (Tat Hai)

A reservoir in Non Sang with a long bamboo bridge stretching out over the water and mountain views on the far side. It's another good spot nearby for photos and a quiet break.

Before you walk the skywalk

The Phu Aen skywalk is inside the national park, so there's a park entry fee of around 20 THB/person, parking around 30 THB, and a skywalk fee of around 50–60 THB/person. Hours follow the park's office times, roughly late morning to evening. Call ahead to check with Phu Kao–Phu Phan Kham National Park at 063-648-4821, since closure days for maintenance or the hours can change.

Eating fish by the lake — what to order

The charm of this side is the lakeside Isan eateries — open wooden huts on raised platforms over the water — serving fish from the lake fresh. Most are local places with no fancy brand name, easy to order from, cheap, and the kind of spot you can sit at for hours with a cool breeze coming off the water. The menu to work your way through is built mostly around the lake's own fish.

1

Salt-grilled fish

Main dish · priced by fish size, from around ฿150–300

A big fish from the lake, coated in salt and grilled whole until the skin is crisp and the flesh inside stays soft and sweet. You pick at it with jaew dipping sauce and fresh veg — the main dish every lakeside table orders.

Lake fishMust try
2

Tom yum fish / tom saep fish

Hot soup · from around ฿100–180

Fresh fish simmered in a bold, sour-and-spicy Isan broth that goes down easy and suits the breezy lakeside setting. Good to order and share around the whole table.

SpicyFresh fish
3

Fried fish with fish sauce

Fried · from around ฿120–250

A whole fish fried crisp and drizzled with fish sauce, eaten with hot sticky rice. Kids will eat it, adults love it, and it's the dish to pair with the grilled fish to round out the meal.

Eat with sticky rice
4

Som tam pla ra / tam Thai

Side dish · from around ฿40–60

Punchy Isan papaya salad to order with every meal — pla ra style for the spice-lovers, tam Thai for milder palates. A side you can't really skip.

Side dishTrue Isan
5

Aom fish / aom beef

Local curry · from around ฿80–150

An aom curry with local greens and lemon basil, fragrant with Isan curry paste, eaten with sticky rice. It's a warming, comforting plate that locals eat regularly.

Local food
6

Dancing shrimp / larb fish

Snack · from around ฿60–120

Raw-and-cooked Isan dishes for the adventurous — live little freshwater shrimp from the lake tossed with seasoning, or a punchy fish larb. Order these to nibble on as you go.

AdventurousDrinking snack

About fish pricing

Grilled fish is mostly priced by size and weight, so before you order, ask clearly for the price and the rough weight — you won't be caught off guard when the bill comes. Many lakeside places weigh the fish in front of you before grilling, which feels nicely transparent.

An easy 2-day plan on the Phu Phan Kham side

This plan is built for people driving themselves, starting from Nong Bua Lamphu town. It's relaxed, not packed, leaving plenty of time to just sit by the water. If you've only got one day, take Day 1 on its own and you'll still get the full experience.

Day 1

Up high, then down for lakeside fish

08:30
Leave Nong Bua Lamphu town, head for Non Sang districtAbout 30–45 minutes away. Fill up the tank first, as gas stations get further apart on the inner side.
09:30
Walk the Phu Aen skywalk, take in the lake above Ubolratana DamCome mid-morning before it gets too hot, walk the glass bridge and shoot the wide view. Allow about an hour for the walk up to the viewpoint.
11:30
Come down from Phu Aen, find a lakeside place for grilled fishPick a spot on a raised platform over the water where the breeze is cool, order grilled fish, tom saep, and som tam, and settle in — no rush.
14:00
Stop at Non Yao Beach, sit by the water and let lunch settleWide open space, shade to sit under, and you can dip your feet in. Good for a short nap or a book.
16:30
Head to Chong Khao Khat viewpoint, wait for sunset over the lakeThe light is best in the evening. Allow time to sit and wait, and bring a light jacket — it gets windy.
18:30
Back to your accommodation, Non Sang side or back in townStaying on the Non Sang side means waking up to the morning view, but lodging options are limited, so book ahead.
Day 2

Lakeside morning, a café, then an easy drive back

07:30
Wake up to the morning air by the lake, shoot the thin mistEarly on, the water is still and mist drifts across in patches — the quietest, prettiest part of the day.
09:00
Stop at Huai Nam Bong Reservoir (Tat Hai), walk the bamboo bridgeAnother waterside spot that's still uncrowded. The bamboo bridge stretching over the water photographs well and it's an easy stroll.
10:30
Sit at a café around Non Sang, sip a coffee before heading backThere are small minimal-style cafés in the district, like Mi Cafe in Non Sang — a nice place to pause before the drive home.
12:00
Lunch in Nong Bua Lamphu town, wrap up the tripOn the way back, stop for Isan food or a go-to noodle shop in town, then carry on with your journey.

Get yourself ready

  • Driving yourself is best — the spots are spread out along the lake and no public transport reaches them. If you don't have your own car, it's worth renting one from Udon Thani or Khon Kaen.
  • Carry cash — the lakeside eateries and park fees mostly take cash, and the signal is weak in places, so don't rely on bank transfers alone.
  • Sun and wind protection — the viewpoints get strong sun and strong wind, so bring a hat, sunglasses, sunscreen, and a light jacket for the evening.
  • Check park hours before you go — the skywalk and viewpoints inside the park have set opening hours, so call 063-648-4821 to check before you set off.
  • Book overnight stays ahead — lodging on the Non Sang side is limited, so if you want to stay by the lake, book in advance, or stay in town and drive out and back.

Want a well-placed base for exploring this side?

See the Top 10 places to stay in Nong Bua Lamphu →

FAQ

How far is the Phu Phan Kham side in Non Sang from Nong Bua Lamphu town?

Driving from Nong Bua Lamphu town to the Non Sang side along the lake above Ubolratana Dam takes about 30–45 minutes. Driving yourself is easiest, since the spots are spread along the shore and no public transport runs out there. You can do it as a day trip, but staying overnight gets you both the evening and the morning views.

How much is the Phu Aen skywalk, and what are the hours?

There's a park entry fee of around 20 THB/person, parking around 30 THB, and a skywalk fee of around 50–60 THB/person. Hours follow the park's office times, roughly late morning to evening. It's worth calling Phu Kao–Phu Phan Kham National Park at 063-648-4821 before you go, since the hours and maintenance closure days can change.

Roughly how much is grilled fish by the lake?

Grilled fish is mostly priced by size and weight, starting around 150–300 THB per fish depending on the fish. Other dishes like tom saep fish, som tam, and aom curry run from a few tens to a hundred-odd baht each. Before ordering, ask clearly for the price and the weight — many places weigh the fish in front of you before grilling.

Which part of the day is best to come?

Mid-morning is good for the viewpoints while it's still cool, midday is for sitting down to fish by the lake in the breeze, and the evening is the best time for sunset over the water. If you stay overnight, you also get the early morning when the water is still with a thin mist.

Can you visit this side without your own car?

It's fairly tricky, since no public transport reaches the lakeside spots. The convenient option is to rent a car and drive yourself from Udon Thani or Khon Kaen, both not far away, or hire a local car for the day and agree on clear pickup and drop-off points.

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