🔄 Updated 21 Jun 2026
Flying morning glory isn't just ordinary flame-fried water spinach. What pulls the crowds is the serving: the cook scoops the piping-hot greens straight from the wok and flicks them out across the air in an arching line, while a second waiter stands on the far side holding an empty plate, catching it in one neat motion. Some shops toss it across the road, others send it sailing right over the Nan River — it's the kind of thing that has you reaching for your phone the moment you see it.
What is flying morning glory, and why is Phitsanulok famous for it?
At its core the dish is water spinach stir-fried hard and fast over a screaming flame, with fermented soybean paste, chili and garlic, cooked so quickly the greens stay crisp and bright but pick up that smoky wok aroma. The real magic is in the serving flourish. Phitsanulok shops have been doing the toss for so long that it has become a signature of the town, and travelers passing through tend to stop in just to see it once with their own eyes. Some shops charge a small fee if you want an extra toss put on for the show — it's a local custom and nothing to be put off by.
Before you go
To actually see the toss go over the water, pick a shop right on the Nan River or one with a wide tossing lane. Tell the staff when you order that you'd like to watch the toss, so you can have your camera ready for the moment.
Want to taste deeper? Try a Phitsanulok food tour or cooking class
Half a day with a local who knows the lanes — or cooking a dish yourself — teaches you more than just eating. Book ahead on Klook or GetYourGuide.
Where to eat flying morning glory in Phitsanulok
When Phitsanulok locals think of flying morning glory, the name that comes up is the "Phak Bung Hern Fah" family — an old-school rice-soup shop that's been part of the town for years. It once had several branches around the riverfront, Ratchaphruek and other neighborhoods; the legendary original is still open today, alongside a handful of Nan riverside spots that do the dish in a more chilled-out setting. We've ordered these by what works best for visitors who want both the flavor and the show.
Phak Bung Hern Fah Branch 1 (Wiroj Phochana)
The legendary rice-soup shop of Phitsanulok, and the first place locals think of when flying morning glory comes up. They fry it over a roaring flame and toss the show right out front. Beyond the morning glory there are punchy dishes like dry-spiced pork ribs, catfish stir-fried with ginger and chili paste, and garlic-fried pork intestine — it's a family-style late-night rice-soup joint.
Sawik Phak Bung Bin (Nan riverside night bazaar)
The shop that does the toss across the road by the Nan River in the night-bazaar area on Phutthabucha Road. They've been at it for over a decade, and the draw is the flame-fry followed by the airborne toss to someone catching a plate on the other side — great for video — eaten right alongside the riverside night-market buzz.
Riverside shops in the Phutthabucha night-bazaar zone
The night-bazaar strip along the Nan River has several restaurants lined up side by side, many of them serving flame-fried morning glory with the toss as their hook. You can walk along and pick whichever has the atmosphere you like — a good spot for dinner in the river breeze after paying respects at Wat Yai.
Pae Tam Sang Nang Chill (floating-raft eatery)
A made-to-order restaurant on a floating raft on the Nan River, with open-air seating that catches the cool breeze all day and a pretty, romantic view at night. Order the flame-fried morning glory alongside a wide range of made-to-order rice dishes. Better suited to people who want a long, relaxed sit-down than a quick stop just for the show.
Huean Chao Nang
A riverside spot on the Nan where you sit down and look straight out over the wide, flowing water with a cool breeze coming off it. It's a pleasant Thai restaurant good for lunch through dinner, and the flame-fried morning glory slots in nicely as one dish in a shared meal.
Krua Nan Nam
A Nan riverside restaurant done up in a European style, with live music — a good pick for dinner with a song and the river breeze. Flame-fried morning glory is one of the dishes you can order in a slightly fancier setting, suited to a special meal or a bigger group.
Bucktown Cafe & Hangout
A cafe-restaurant on the Nan River with both indoor and riverside seating; at night the decorative lights give it a chilled-out vibe. It suits a younger crowd who want dinner followed by a cafe sit. It isn't about the toss show, but you get the full riverside atmosphere.
Phak Bung Hern Fah Branch 2
Another branch of the Phak Bung Hern Fah family, doing rice soup and flame-fried morning glory in the same style as the original. Handy as a backup if Branch 1 is packed or sits in a different part of town from where you're staying — the cooking is close to the same.
Sells out early
The Phak Bung Hern Fah rice-soup shops open in the evening through late night, and on some weekdays they close early. If you've got your heart set on one shop in particular, call ahead to check the hours before you set out — it's the safer bet.
What to order alongside it
A single plate of flying morning glory probably won't fill you up, since most of these are rice-soup or made-to-order shops. Locals tend to order a spread of dishes to share. Here's what pairs well with the flame-fried greens.
- Dry-spiced pork ribs — the standout at Phak Bung Hern Fah, bold and sour-spicy, great with hot rice soup.
- Catfish with ginger and chili paste — firm fish, fragrant ginger paste; a top dish to order with the morning glory.
- Garlic-fried pork intestine — crisp outside, soft inside, fragrant with garlic, easy to keep nibbling at.
- Spicy gourami-fish salad — sour and spicy to cut the richness and keep a rice-soup meal from feeling flat.
- Plain rice soup (khao tom kui) — a must for any late-night rice-soup shop, easy to slurp down.
When to go and how to get there
Most flying-morning-glory shops are evening-to-late affairs, and the best window is from about 6 pm onward — that's when you get both the lit-up atmosphere and a clear view of the flames during the toss. If you're exploring central Phitsanulok, the Nan riverside night bazaar is walkable from Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat (Wat Yai), so you can do an evening temple visit followed by a riverside dinner all in one night.
Wat Yai + flying morning glory by the river
A long evening by the Nan River
On cash
Plenty of rice-soup and riverside shops in Phitsanulok still find cash or a PromptPay transfer easier than card. Keep a little cash on you so there are no hiccups.
Plan a full day of eating and exploring in Phitsanulok — temples, riverside, and the best food
See the Phitsanulok travel guide →