🔄 Updated 21 Jun 2026
Phu Kao–Phu Phan Kham National Park covers around 322 square kilometers, straddling Nong Bua Lamphu province and the northern edge of Khon Kaen. The name comes from two mountain groups with very different characters. Phu Kao is a cluster of nine hills full of rock fields, caves, and small waterfalls, while Phu Phan Kham is a long ridge running parallel to the Ubolratana Dam reservoir. Almost all the standout viewpoints are on the Phu Phan Kham side because you look straight down onto the water — perfect for anyone in Khon Kaen who wants wide-open nature rather than just sightseeing in the city.
Viewpoints above the dam worth the climb
The highlight here is standing on the ridge and looking down over the whole sheet of the Ubolratana reservoir. There are several spots to choose from, each one good at a different time — some are best at sunrise, some at dusk. We've ordered them the way people who've actually been say is worth the walk.
Hor Sawan — 360° dam view
The park's main viewpoint, a tall rock platform you reach by climbing another 9 meters or so of stairs to the very top. Once you're up there the Ubolratana reservoir opens out as far as you can see, set against the Phu Phan Kham range running the length of the water. It's the shot everyone takes. The wind is fairly strong; come at dusk and you'll catch the golden light reflecting off the water at its best.
Pha Hin Maluek Khuek Khak — for sunrise
An odd name but easy to remember — it's a rock outcrop jutting out along the ridge, about 1.5 km from Hor Sawan. This one is all about sunrise over the reservoir. If you camp in the park and wake to walk up before dawn, you'll see mist drifting over the lake as the sun slowly comes up — a sight that pays you back for the early start.
Phu Aen Sky Walk — glass walkway over the cliff
A newer attraction that recently opened to visitors: a walkway extending out over the cliff edge, looking down on the dam and the forest below. Good for anyone who likes a mild thrill and wants a shot you won't get elsewhere. Opening times tend to be announced in rounds on the park's Facebook page, so before you go, check whether it's open that day and whether there's a queue.
Chong Khao Khat viewpoint
A roadside viewpoint that takes in Ubolratana Dam from a different angle than Hor Sawan. Easy to pull over and photograph since it sits right by the road — good for anyone who doesn't want to walk far but still wants the wide water view. The soft light in the late afternoon is just right.
Tips for the viewpoints
Hor Sawan and Pha Hin Maluek Khuek Khak are both on the Phu Phan Kham side, reached the same way. The smart plan is to stay one night in the park: climb Hor Sawan in the evening for sunset, then walk to the rock outcrop before dawn for sunrise — both light shows in a single trip.
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Rock fields and traces of ancient people
The Phu Kao side stands out in a completely different way from Phu Phan Kham. Here you've got a plateau on the mountain covered in oddly shaped rock fields — stone worn by wind and rain over ages into basins, grooves, and lumps that look like animals, which locals have named after the shapes they see. Walk the rock fields in the late-rainy, early-cool season and you'll find tiny flowers sprouting in the cracks — an atmosphere that's hard to find at the usual Khon Kaen sights.
- Phu Kao rock field — a wide expanse of stone in the middle of dry dipterocarp forest, with strangely shaped rocks to wander among; good for strolling and photos in soft light.
- Prehistoric rock paintings and carvings — along cave walls and rock shelters in the Phu Kao area there are handprints and line drawings left by prehistoric people, proof that humans have lived around here for a very long time.
- Tat Fa Waterfall — a small waterfall about 4 meters high on the Phu Kao side, with plenty of water in the rainy season but little in the dry months; check the water level before going just for the falls.
- Caves and rock shelters — scattered along the trails, some of which were once shelters from sun and rain for hikers passing through.
Straight talk
The rock fields and ancient traces on the Phu Kao side are in a different zone from the dam viewpoints on the Phu Phan Kham side. They're a fair distance apart and you have to drive around to reach them. If your time is limited, pick one side to focus on. Most people coming from Khon Kaen choose the Phu Phan Kham side because the dam views and the campground are over there.
Hiking trails and nature
Hiking at Phu Kao–Phu Phan Kham is on the gentle side — nothing as tough as the high peaks. Most routes are short nature trails that get you from the headquarters or a parking area to a viewpoint in no time. They suit ordinary visitors and families who want to breathe in the dry-forest air, watch birds and check out the plants without heavy preparation.
Hor Sawan–Pha Hin Maluek Khuek Khak route
The popular route on the Phu Phan Kham side, walking along the ridge from Hor Sawan to the rock outcrop, about 1.5 km. The path isn't steep, passing through dry forest and rock fields, and it covers the standout viewpoints in one go. An easy walk in a little over an hour.
Dry dipterocarp nature trail
A short loop around the headquarters to look at the dry-forest plants and listen to the birds. Good for warming up in the morning before the sun gets harsh, or for walking with kids.
Rock field–waterfall route, Phu Kao side
The Phu Kao side for those who want a longer walk to see the strange rock fields and Tat Fa Waterfall. Ask the rangers about the route and the water levels first; some stretches are better done with a guide.
Getting ready to hike
Wear sneakers or hiking shoes with good grip, because the rock fields get slippery when there's dew before dawn. Pack drinking water and a hat — the sun on the ridge is stronger than you'd think. If you're doing the longer route on the Phu Kao side, let the rangers know and get back before dark.
Fees, getting there, and where to stay
The headquarters and viewpoints on the Phu Phan Kham side are in Ubolratana district, about an hour to an hour and a half by car from Khon Kaen city depending on where you're headed. The route follows the road along Ubolratana Dam up the hill to the headquarters. A regular sedan can make it, but some stretches are steep and winding, so drive with a little care.
- Park entry fee — charged at the National Parks rates: around ฿40 for Thai adults, ฿20 for Thai children, ฿200 for foreign adults, ฿100 for foreign children, plus a small extra fee for vehicles. Rates may change.
- Opening hours — open daily during the daytime on standard hours. If you want to stay overnight you'll need to register and book lodging or a campsite in advance.
- Getting there — you really want your own car or a rental, as public transport doesn't reach the park easily. From Khon Kaen city, head toward Ubolratana district then turn onto the dam road.
- Where to stay — there are park bungalows and a campground, booked through the National Parks online reservation system. It gets busy in the cool season, so book ahead.
The most popular place to stay overnight is the Laem Samran campground, right on the edge of the reservoir, where you wake up to the lake view in front of your tent. There are shops, toilets and showers; if you don't have your own gear you can rent a tent and bedding from the park. Good for anyone who wants to try camping for the first time without hauling a lot of stuff.
How to plan a Phu Kao–Phu Phan Kham trip
You can do this place either as a day trip from Khon Kaen or as an overnight to catch the cool breeze by the dam. We've laid out two sample plans so you can pick based on the time you have.
Day trip for the dam views
Stay overnight for both sunrise and sunset
See where to stay and the full Khon Kaen travel guide before you set off
See the Khon Kaen guide →