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Trok Rong Ya & Old Town
Uthai Thani

Uthai Thani is a small town built for slow days. The heart of the old quarter is Trok Rong Ya, a narrow lane that was a Chinese community and a row of opium dens a century ago. Both sides still hold the original wooden shophouses and old buildings, faces unchanged. Every Saturday evening the lane turns into a walking street packed with local snacks and cafes, and on other days it's still an easy place to wander and take photos, with a riverside morning market by the Sakae Krang River right nearby. This is our pick of how to walk the old town, with real opening hours and prices.

🚶 Saturday walking street🏚️ Old wooden buildings☕ Cafes in heritage buildings
Trok Rong Ya & Old Town Uthai Thani

🔄 Updated 21 Jun 2026

Trok Rong Ya sits in the middle of Uthai Thani town, in Uthai Mai sub-district, off Soi Rat Uthit, an easy walk from the Sakae Krang River and Wat Ubosatharam. The name "Trok Rong Ya" comes from its past as a Chinese community and a cluster of opium dens that operated legally until around 1957, before the government shut them down. The lane fell quiet for a long time, until the local community brought it back to life as a walking street. Its charm is that it wasn't made to look brand new — the original wooden shophouses and old buildings were kept as they were, and walking through feels like time stood still.

The quarter is tiny. Walking the whole lane takes under half an hour if you go straight through, but most people come for the slow-life pace — stopping to take photos, to eat, to sit at a cafe — and an easy half-day disappears. The one thing to know before you come: the walking street only runs on Saturdays, 4:00–8:00 PM. Come on any other day and you'll get a quiet lane that's fine for photos, but most stalls won't be open.

Trok Rong Ya walking street — Saturday evenings only

Saturday evening is when Trok Rong Ya is most alive. From around 4 PM the lane closes to traffic and becomes a walking street, both sides lined with local food, old-style sweets, handmade goods, crafts and cafe stalls. Some families open the front of their own wooden houses to sell. The mood is friendly and small-town, not cramped like the walking streets in big cities. You can graze your way down it and photograph the old buildings the whole way.

  • Open days: Every Saturday, 4:00–8:00 PM (the lane is walkable on other days, but stalls are sparse)
  • Food: Local dishes, old-style Thai sweets, fried and grilled snacks, most priced 20–60 THB
  • Atmosphere: Narrow lane, wooden shophouses on both sides, warm lights at dusk — great photos around golden hour
  • Free entry: You can wander and take photos with no admission fee

Get the day right

If you're set on the Trok Rong Ya walking street, you have to come on a Saturday night — there's no way around it. Aim to arrive around 5 PM so you catch both the evening light on the buildings and the stalls while they're freshly stocked. If you turn up on a weekday and find the lane quiet, don't be surprised — that's just how it is here.

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The opium-den museum — where the lane gets its name

The highlight that sets this lane apart from any ordinary walking street is the opium-den museum, which recreates the atmosphere of an old opium den inside one of the original wooden shophouses. There are smoking beds, lamps and everyday objects from the era, plus boards telling the story of the Chinese community that once thrived on trade along the Sakae Krang River. On some days a community volunteer is there to tell the stories. It's the spot that helps you understand why the lane is called "Trok Rong Ya" — it doesn't take long to look around, but it gives you the full context of the quarter.

Straight talk

The museum is small and community-run, not a big institution. It can be closed at times if there's no one to staff it. Come on a Saturday night when the lane is fully open and you'll have a better chance of getting in and finding someone to tell the stories.

Old buildings and wooden houses to seek out

The main charm of the Uthai Thani old town is the century-old wooden shophouse and Chinese-style architecture that's still genuinely in use — not just photo backdrops. Many are still homes that people live in, and some have opened as coffee shops or stores. Worthwhile spots to walk and photograph run both inside Trok Rong Ya itself and along the side lanes that connect out to the Sakae Krang River.

  • Wooden shophouses in Trok Rong Ya — a row of two-storey wooden houses joined together, old wooden door panels and vintage shop signs, worth photographing the whole lane
  • Lanes down to the river — walk from the lane out toward the Sakae Krang River, past wooden houses and quiet old-town corners with few people
  • Wat Ubosatharam — an old riverside temple near the lane, with mural paintings and an old chedi, an easy walk on from the old town

Food in the lane & local specialties

Food is the main reason people come to walk Trok Rong Ya on a Saturday night. Most of it is local dishes and sweets made fresh, at small-town friendly prices. We've picked the kinds you'll run into often and that people talk about. Some things are sold only on Saturdays, and some you can also find at the morning market.

1

Vietnamese kuai chap (kuai chap yuan)

Savory dish · found both in the lane and around town

A signature of Uthai Thani — wide, soft rice-noodle sheets in a clear broth with minced pork, meatballs and a soft-boiled egg, topped with fried garlic. You can find it both in the lane on Saturday nights and at shops around town. It's the dish to try first.

Local signatureMust try
From ฿40–60
2

Old-style Thai sweets

Dessert · Saturdays only

Several stalls in the lane make Thai sweets fresh — khanom sai sai, khanom krok, khanom buang and old-fashioned desserts that are hard to find in bigger cities. A few baht a piece, perfect to eat as you walk.

Old-style sweetsDessert
From ฿20–40
3

Local grilled & fried snacks

Snacks · Saturdays only

Snack stalls are scattered the length of the lane — grilled pork skewers, Isan sausage, hot fried bites and herbal drinks. Easy to graze on the whole way down.

SnacksGood value
฿10–25 a skewer
4

Sakae Krang river fish

Main dish · riverside restaurants in town

Uthai Thani is known for river fish from the cages in the Sakae Krang River, especially giant gourami (pla rad) and pla thepo. The riverside restaurants in town do them well. If you want a proper sit-down, go for a dinner at a riverside spot near the old town.

River fishLocal specialty
฿120–250 a plate

Cafes in the old town

Uthai Thani has turned into a slow-life cafe town over the past few years. Many shops have opened in old buildings or wooden houses around the old quarter — quiet, easy to sit at for a while — with most drinks running about 50–90 THB. We've chosen places that are actually open and that people talk about.

1

Tone Café

38 Soi Suk Kasem, Uthai Mai · Open 8:30 AM–4:30 PM

A small cafe on Soi Suk Kasem, which connects to Trok Rong Ya. It's been open for years, with a warm, friendly feel, using Arabica beans from Chiang Rai — fragrant and well-balanced. A good stop before or after walking the lane.

Next to Trok Rong YaArabica coffee
Drinks ฿50–90
2

Mum Sakae

On the Sakae Krang River, market side · river view

A small coffee shop on the Sakae Krang River, on the market side at the foot of the Wat Ubosatharam bridge. Its draw is a clear river view — sip a coffee and watch the houseboats and the current go by. A good morning stop straight after the morning market.

River viewChill spot
Drinks ฿50–80

Tip

Most cafes in Uthai are small shops run by locals, opening and closing on the owner's schedule, and some close on weekdays. If you've got your heart set on a particular one, it's worth a quick check of its page first to be sure.

Sakae Krang riverside morning market

The pair to the Trok Rong Ya old town is the Sakae Krang riverside morning market, close enough to walk to. It buzzes from before dawn through to mid-morning, with local food made fresh — Vietnamese kuai chap, rice porridge, Thai sweets, old-style coffee — and fresh and dried goods to choose from. The draw is the riverside atmosphere, with houseboats and the everyday life of the Sakae Krang River in view. If you're in Uthai, it's worth getting up early to walk this market once — it's a completely different mood from the evening walking street.

  • Hours: From before dawn to mid-morning, busiest around 6:00–9:00 AM
  • Standouts: Vietnamese kuai chap, fish rice porridge, old-style coffee, fresh-made Thai sweets
  • Photo spot: Houseboats and the bridge over the Sakae Krang River in the morning

Walking the old town the full route — a plan by the hour

Saturday morning

Riverside morning market + cafe

06:30
Walk the Sakae Krang riverside morning market — try Vietnamese kuai chap and old-style coffeeBusiest now, with the fresh produce still full
08:00
Stop at riverside Wat Ubosatharam to see the old murals and chediWalk straight on from the market
09:00
Sit for a river-view coffee at Mum Sakae, or Tone Café on Soi Suk KasemDrinks around ฿50–90
Saturday evening

Trok Rong Ya walking street

16:30
Start walking Trok Rong Ya as the stalls set up — the evening light is lovely on the old buildingsWalking street runs 4:00–8:00 PM
17:00
Stop at the opium-den museum to understand the lane and the old Chinese community
17:30
Graze on local food the whole way — old-style Thai sweets, grilled and fried snacksMost ฿20–60
19:00
Catch the wooden shophouses as the warm lights come on, for that old-time atmosphere

Getting there & things to know

  • Location: Trok Rong Ya is in the middle of Uthai Thani town, in Uthai Mai sub-district, within walking distance of the Sakae Krang River and Wat Ubosatharam
  • From Bangkok: Roughly a 3–3.5 hour drive (via Nakhon Sawan), or take a coach/van straight to town
  • When to come: Saturday night for the full walking street; on other days focus on photos and the morning market instead
  • Getting around town: The town is small and the sights are close together — easy to walk or cycle, so wear comfortable walking shoes

Plan a full Uthai Thani trip across the old town, the riverside and the food

See the Uthai Thani travel guide →

FAQ

What days and hours does the Trok Rong Ya walking street open?

Only on Saturdays, 4:00–8:00 PM. On other days you can still walk the lane and take photos, but the stalls won't all be open. Aim to arrive around 5 PM so you catch both the evening light and the stalls while they're freshly stocked.

Where is Trok Rong Ya in Uthai Thani?

It's in the middle of Uthai Thani town, in Uthai Mai sub-district, off Soi Rat Uthit, an easy walk from the Sakae Krang River, Wat Ubosatharam and the riverside morning market. The town is small and the sights are all close together.

Why is it called Trok Rong Ya?

In the past the lane was a Chinese community and a cluster of opium dens that operated legally until around 1957, before the government shut them down. "Rong ya" means opium den. Today there's an opium-den museum in the lane that recreates the atmosphere of that era.

What are the best things to eat at Trok Rong Ya and the Uthai old town?

The must-try is Vietnamese kuai chap, a signature of Uthai Thani, along with old-style Thai sweets and grilled and fried snacks in the lane on Saturday nights, plus Sakae Krang river fish such as giant gourami at the riverside restaurants in town.

Does the Uthai Thani old town have good cafes?

Several, such as Tone Café on Soi Suk Kasem next to Trok Rong Ya, which uses Chiang Rai Arabica coffee, and Mum Sakae on the Sakae Krang River with a river view. Most drinks run about 50–90 THB.

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