🔄 Updated 21 Jun 2026
Khao No-Khao Kaeo sits in Ban Daen subdistrict, Banphot Phisai district, Nakhon Sawan — a cluster of limestone hills standing alone in the middle of open fields beside the Asia Highway (Highway 1), about 40 kilometres from Nakhon Sawan town. It's a natural stop for anyone driving past, because you can see the hills from far off, there's a big car park, and Wat Khao No sits right at the foot of the hill so you can pray without paying any entrance fee.
The macaque troop at the temple — kids love it
The moment you park and step out, the first thing you meet is the troop of macaques — a hundred or so of them living around the base of the hill and the temple grounds. The monkeys here are very used to people: they walk right up and are bold about begging for food. Kids usually find it exciting, but keep a close eye on whatever's in your hands — these monkeys are quick to grab bags, water bottles, glasses and phones. If you want to feed them, buy food from the stalls in front of the temple and set it down rather than handing it over.
Watch the monkeys
Keep valuables and food in a zipped bag or in the car, and don't walk around holding a plastic bag in your hand — the monkeys read that as food and will jump at you. If you've brought small children, hold their hand the whole time and don't let them carry food around on their own.
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The reclining-Buddha cave under the hill — a place to pray
Beneath Khao No there's a cave known as the reclining-Buddha cave (Tham Phra Phuttha Saiyat). At the cave entrance sits a large reclining Buddha image for visitors to pay respects to, and you can walk inside as well — though it's fairly dark and damp, so use your phone torch. Near the mouth of the cave there's also a royal inscription tied to a past royal visit, which gives the spot a bit of history rather than being just a cave to look at.
By the records, King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) travelled to Wat Khao No by water in 1906 and stayed at the reclining-Buddha cave. That history is part of why both Khao No and the neighbouring Khao Kaeo have been registered as a site of natural and historical value.
- The reclining Buddha — a large reclining image at the cave entrance, the main place to pay respects; photos allowed
- Inside the cave — you can walk in; dark and damp, so use a phone torch and watch for slippery ground
- The royal inscription — traces of King Rama V's visit, near the cave mouth
- The replica Buddha footprint — another spot to make merit within the temple grounds
Climbing the 700 steps to the summit
If you're after the view, the way up Khao No is a staircase of around 700 steps. The first stretch is concrete with a handrail, then it turns into a rocky section that gets steeper and steeper — some parts are nearly vertical, which is why people call it the 'monkey ladder.' It takes roughly 1–2 hours depending on your fitness, with rest spots along the way. At the top you get the wide rice plains and the facing hill opening up in a near-180-degree view — well worth the effort.
Before you climb
Wear trainers or shoes with good grip, and pack drinking water and a snack for energy. Avoid the midday heat — morning or late afternoon is better. If you have knee problems or a fear of heights, weigh it up first, because the upper section is fairly steep.
If the 700 steps aren't for you, there's also Khao Nang Phanthurat, a smaller peak you reach with a climb of about 60 steps. It has a shrine and a small viewpoint — good for anyone who wants the feel of being up on the hill without the hard slog.
Khao Kaeo — watching the bats leave the cave at dusk
Next to Khao No is Khao Kaeo, a limestone hill with a cave that's home to large numbers of bats. The highlight is dusk, when the bats stream out of the cave mouth in a long ribbon to go and feed, starting around six in the evening — a sight plenty of people come specifically to wait for. Plan it well and you can climb Khao No in the afternoon, come down to pray, then finish with the bats at Khao Kaeo in the evening, all in one trip.
Khao No
The temple, the reclining-Buddha cave, the monkey troop and the 700-step climb to a rice-field view — the main spot most people stop for.
Khao Kaeo
The bat cave — the highlight is the bats streaming out in a ribbon around six in the evening; a good way to end the trip.
Khao Nang Phanthurat
A smaller peak, about 60 steps, with a shrine and a viewpoint — good for anyone who doesn't want a hard climb.
Hours, fees and how to get there
- Opening hours — roughly 08:00–18:00 daily (for the bats, wait until close to six in the evening)
- Entrance fee — none; donate at the temple as you wish
- Location — Ban Daen subdistrict, Banphot Phisai district, Nakhon Sawan, beside the Asia Highway
- Getting there — from Nakhon Sawan town take the Asia Highway north about 40 km; you'll see the hills from far off, with signs and a turn-off into the temple, plus a large car park
- Good for — families bringing kids to see the monkeys, people who enjoy climbing, and anyone breaking up a drive north
Time it right
If you want the lot — the view from the top, praying in the cave, and the bats — aim to arrive around three or four in the afternoon. Climb the hill before the sun softens, come down to pray, then wait for the bats right at six.
Plan your whole trip to Nakhon Sawan
See the Nakhon Sawan travel guide →