🔄 Updated 21 Jun 2026
First, a bit of geography. Mae Hong Son sits behind the mountain range west of Chiang Mai, so every road route has to climb up and down the hills the whole way, which is where the nickname 1,864 curves comes from. Most people start from Chiang Mai, since it has the big airport, car rental outlets, and van counters all in one place. Which way you go in really depends on whether you want the journey to be part of the trip, or you just want to get there as fast as possible.
Route 1095 vs Route 108: how the two roads differ
If you drive or take a van, there are two main roads to choose from, and they feel completely different. Many people like to go in one way and out the other in a loop, what's known as the Mae Hong Son Loop, so they get to see both sides.
Route 1095 (the Pai–Pang Mapha road)
The popular tourist route. Leave Chiang Mai and stop in Pai first, then carry on to Pang Mapha and Lod Cave before reaching Mae Hong Son town. This side has more curves and steeper grades, around 762 of them, with great views but tiring driving. If you get carsick easily, bring meds.
Route 108 (the Mae Sariang–Khun Yuam road)
The southern route, leaving Chiang Mai via Hot, Mae Sariang, Mae La Noi, and Khun Yuam. It's longer but the road is wider, the curves are gentler, and there's less traffic, ideal if you want an easy drive or get carsick easily. From Nov–Feb you can also catch the Mexican sunflower fields at Khun Yuam.
Tip for choosing your route
If you have 3 days or more, go in via Route 1095 (Pai) and come out via Route 108 (Mae Sariang) as a loop. You'll see both sides without driving the same road twice, and you won't have to tackle the Pai curves on the way home when you're already worn out.
Flying in direct: fastest, but with limits
Mae Hong Son Airport (code HGN) is right in town, so it's only a few minutes from the airport to your hotel. The route flown is Chiang Mai–Mae Hong Son on a small propeller plane, with actual flight time around 25–35 minutes. Compared with a 5–8 hour road trip, that's a big time saver, ideal if you're short on leave days or get badly carsick.
Worth knowing: there are only a handful of flights into Mae Hong Son each day, and the schedule changes seasonally and often. At times the airline reduces frequency or suspends flights altogether, especially during the smoky season early in the year when visibility is low. So check the schedule and book several days ahead, and don't assume there's a flight every single day.
- Flight time — Chiang Mai to Mae Hong Son is around 25–35 minutes on a small propeller plane.
- Rough price — from around a thousand-plus THB one way if you book ahead. Prices rise in high season and seats fill quickly.
- Limitations — few flights, limited seats, and a tight baggage allowance. Keep a van as a backup plan.
- Best for — travelers short on leave, families with young kids, or anyone too carsick to handle the curves.
Vans from Chiang Mai: the most popular budget option
Vans are what Thai travelers use most, because they're cheap, convenient, and run several times a day. The main queue is at Chiang Mai Bus Terminal (Arcade), where Prempracha Transport has long been the major operator running the Mae Hong Son line on both the Pai and Mae Sariang roads. Buy tickets at the Arcade counter or book online in advance.
- Pai route (Route 1095) — Chiang Mai–Pai is around 3 hr, then Pai–Mae Hong Son another 3–4 hr. Many people overnight in Pai before carrying on.
- Mae Sariang route (Route 108) — Chiang Mai–Mae Hong Son direct, longer overall but on an easier road, good if you get carsick.
- Rough price — from low hundreds up to around 300–400 THB per leg, depending on distance and timing. Far cheaper than flying.
- Good to know — vans are small and the curves are many, so if you're prone to motion sickness, sit up front, bring travel-sickness pills, and eat only lightly before boarding.
Book ahead in high season
During the cool season (Nov–Feb) crowds head up to see the sea of mist, and Pai-route vans fill up fast, especially on weekends and long holidays. Book your ticket several days ahead, and don't just walk up on the day, or you risk missing the van.
Renting a car: the most freedom for a loop trip
If you want to stop for photos at the viewpoints whenever you like, without waiting for the next van, renting a car from Chiang Mai and driving yourself is the most flexible choice. There are rental companies, both big brands at Chiang Mai Airport and local shops in town. Pick up in Chiang Mai, drive the loop, and return to the same spot easily.
- Pick the right car — the route climbs steep hills, so choose a car with enough power and good brakes. If you're traveling with several people and luggage, allow extra engine power.
- Check it before you take it — inspect the brakes, tires, and engine oil, and photograph any existing marks all around the car to avoid disputes at return.
- Get full insurance — narrow roads, lots of curves, and patches of fog mean full-coverage insurance buys real peace of mind.
- Fill up with a buffer — big stations are far apart, so fill the tank before leaving town and top up every time you pass a station in a larger town.
Allow more time than Google says
Real driving time on the mountain roads is usually longer than the map app estimates, because you have to slow for the curves and stop to rest along the way. Add at least one to two hours, and try to reach your hotel before dark, because the Pai road is very dark with no lights, so don't drive at night.
Renting a motorbike for the loop: for the adventurous
The Mae Hong Son Loop is a dream ride for motorcyclists from all over the world, a circle from Chiang Mai to Pai to Mae Hong Son to Mae Sariang and back to Chiang Mai, taking around 3–5 days at an unhurried pace. Well-known rental shops like Aya Service have bikes in both Chiang Mai and Pai, let you pick up in one place and drop off in another, and can even forward your luggage ahead for you.
- Rough rental price — small scooters start around 140–200 THB per day, while more powerful 150–160cc models run around 400–500 THB per day, plus insurance and deposit.
- One-way pick-up and drop-off — rent in Chiang Mai and return in Pai, or rent in Pai and return in Chiang Mai, so you don't have to backtrack.
- Safety — this route has heavy, steep curves and suits only genuinely confident riders. Beginners should practice in town first and always wear a helmet.
- Prepare your body — hot sun by day, cold at night, and fog in the early morning, so pack a windbreaker and rain jacket to carry with you.
Sample 3-day loop itinerary
If you want the journey to be part of the trip, here's a loop plan that works well: go up via Pai and come down via Mae Sariang, so you see both sides without driving the same road twice.
Chiang Mai → Pai → Pang Mapha
Pang Mapha → Mae Hong Son town
Mae Hong Son → Khun Yuam → Chiang Mai
Summary: which option to choose
Want to arrive fast, short on leave
Fly direct from Chiang Mai, but check the flight schedule and book ahead, and keep a van as a backup plan.
On a budget, not driving yourself
A Prempracha van from Chiang Mai's Arcade terminal is cheap and runs several times a day, just book ahead in high season.
Want freedom to stop for photos
Rent a car and drive the loop yourself, picking up and returning in Chiang Mai, with full insurance and time to spare.
Adventurous and a confident rider
Rent a motorbike to take on the Mae Hong Son Loop, with one-way pick-up and drop-off, for those who can ride.
Keep planning your full Mae Hong Son trip, including where to stay, eat, and explore
See the Mae Hong Son travel guide →