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Mae Klong & Umbrella Market Eats
Snacking Between Trains

The Umbrella Market in Mae Klong is famous for the train that rumbles straight through the vegetable stalls — but honestly, half the charm is the food all around it, much of it going back decades. We've picked the stalls that Mae Klong locals actually eat at and lined them up against the train timetable, so you can pace your eating without missing either the good food or the umbrellas folding down as the train comes through.

🚂 Umbrella Market🍜 Noodles & red-pork rice⏰ Time it to the train
Mae Klong & Umbrella Market Eats Snacking Between Trains

🔄 Updated 21 Jun 2026

Mae Klong Market and the Umbrella Market are the same place — a fresh market that straddles the Ban Laem–Mae Klong railway line, open daily from roughly 6am–6pm. Most people come to watch the train pass while the vendors fold their umbrellas and pull their goods back in a matter of seconds. But if you make the trip and leave with just a single ice cream bar, you've missed the point — the market is ringed with old-school stalls that have been going for decades, from noodles and red-pork rice to gao lao soup and hand-made egg noodles.

Read this before you go

Most of the food here is morning food — many stalls close in the afternoon or sell out before noon. If you're coming to eat properly, aim to arrive mid-morning, before 11am, and save the afternoon train for after.

Mae Klong station train timetable

The key to eating here is timing the train right. The Mae Klong line only runs a few times a day, and the moment the whole market folds its umbrellas at once is when the train arrives at and departs from the station. The rough times people have used for years are:

  • Train arrives at Mae Klong station — around 08:30 · 11:10 · 14:30 · 17:40
  • Train departs Mae Klong station — around 06:20 · 09:00 · 11:30 · 15:30
  • As the train nears, a warning signal sounds and the vendors fold their umbrellas and pull everything back — it only takes a few minutes before the train passes.
  • Times can shift with the operating schedule. Double-check with station staff or a vendor at the front of the market once you arrive to be sure.

Where to stand for train photos

If you want the shot of the train slicing through the stalls, stand at the edge of the track in the market lane — there's no need to squeeze into the middle of the rails. Wait until the vendors have finished folding their umbrellas, then shoot; you'll get a better photo and stay safer. Don't stand in the path of the train.

🍢

Want to taste deeper? Try a Samut Songkhram food tour or cooking class

Half a day with a local who knows the lanes — or cooking a dish yourself — teaches you more than just eating. Book ahead on Klook or GetYourGuide.

🍢 See all Samut Songkhram food tours & classes (Klook)

Noodles and egg noodles worth trying

If you could only eat one thing at Mae Klong Market, plenty of people would say noodles — several of the noodle and egg-noodle stalls here have been run by the same families for generations. These are the ones locals bring up most often.

1

Kong Meng Jan Egg Noodles

Open around 08:30–17:00 · from ฿50–70

An egg-noodle and wonton shop going back more than 60 years, with house-made noodles served alongside red pork and wontons. It's one of the first names Mae Klong locals reach for when the talk turns to noodles in the market.

Egg noodlesLong-runningMust try
2

Akong Kuay Jap

Open pre-dawn to noon · from ฿13–40

Clear-broth kuay jap (rolled rice-noodle soup) at easy prices, starting in the low double digits. It opens before dawn and makes a good light meal before you walk the market — tender offal in a well-rounded, mellow broth.

Kuay japEasy on the walletBreakfast
3

Weera Beef Balls

Open around 06:00–15:00 · from ฿50–60

A beef-ball noodle stall many people rate as the best beef balls in Mae Klong — firm, springy balls in a broth sweetened from the bones. Open morning through afternoon.

Beef noodlesBeef balls
4

Jun Panich (Fish-Ball Noodles)

Open around 08:00–15:00 · from ฿45–60

A long-standing fish-ball noodle shop. Mae Klong is a coastal town, so the fish balls are fresh and properly springy — a good pick if you like your noodles on the lighter side, without heavy toppings.

Fish ballsCoastal town
5

Krung Thai Gao Lao

Open around 05:00–14:00 · from ฿50–70

A well-known spot for gao lao (noodle-free soup) and pork-offal rice congee, over by the Krung Thai Bank. The offal is clean with no off smell, the broth comes piping hot, and it's a solid breakfast. Cash only, and busy from early morning.

Gao laoPork offalBreakfast

Standout rice dishes around the market

Beyond noodles, Mae Klong Market has rice-plate stalls that have been around for years and still draw real queues — better if you're properly hungry rather than just grazing.

1

Meng Red-Pork & Crispy-Pork Rice

Open around 06:00–15:00 · from ฿50–60

A famous Mae Klong red-pork and crispy-pork rice stall — the red pork is tender and fragrant, the crispy pork crunchy outside and soft inside, all under an old-recipe sauce. It's the name people recommend most when red-pork rice in the market comes up.

Red-pork ricePopularMust try
2

Om Sawin Stewed Pork Leg Rice

Open around 05:00–11:00 · from ฿50–70

An early-morning stewed pork-leg rice stall, open from 5am and usually sold out by around 10am. The skin is meltingly soft and the sauce is rich — if you want some, you really have to come early.

Stewed pork legSells out fast
3

Thai Sawasdee Chicken Rice

Open around 06:00–14:00 · from ฿45–60

A long-running chicken-rice shop near the Sawasdee hotel — fragrant rice, a punchy old-style dipping sauce, and tender chicken. A breakfast-and-lunch regular for Mae Klong locals.

Chicken riceLong-running
4

Jue Chicken Rice

Open around 06:00–14:00 · from ฿45–60

Another chicken-rice stall in the market, with a mellow, well-balanced broth. Locals stop by often, and it's a handy backup if the first shop has a long queue.

Chicken rice
5

Je Rung Southern Curry

Breakfast–lunch · from ฿40–60

A bold, punchy southern curry-over-rice stall, with gaeng leuang (yellow curry) and khua kling, for anyone who likes fiery southern flavours in the middle of Mae Klong Market. Ladled over rice, it fills you up fast.

Southern curry riceBold and spicy

Snacks and sweets around the market

Once you've worked through the main dishes, there are still snacks and sweets to pick up — several of them Mae Klong specialties that are hard to find in Bangkok.

Afternoon snack

Khun Ae Oyster Omelette

An old-style oyster omelette with a soft batter and duck egg. It's an afternoon snack people queue for, opening around 2pm onward — handy if you're waiting for the evening train.

Local specialty

Mae Klong Mackerel

The famous 'bent-neck' short-bodied mackerel — small, fatty fish that you can buy by the basket to take home, or order fried hot and eaten with steamed rice in the market.

Sweets / souvenir

Palm-Sugar Sweets

Thai sweets and genuine coconut- and toddy-palm sugar from Samut Songkhram — good both to nibble on the spot and to carry home as gifts, with a homey, fragrant sweetness.

Coffee break

Soul Bakery Mae Klong

A bakery in the market for anyone who wants to pause over bread and coffee. It stays open into the evening, making it a good spot to sit out of the sun while you wait for the train.

An eat-and-walk plan built around the train

If you want both the good food and the umbrella-folding train shots in one day, try pacing it like this, adjusting to the train times on the day you visit.

Morning

Eat breakfast before the crowds arrive

07:30
Arrive at Mae Klong Market and start with breakfast — Krung Thai gao lao or Om Sawin stewed pork-leg riceBoth sell out fast, so getting there early pays off.
08:30
Wait for the train arriving at the station, watch the vendors fold their umbrellas, grab shots from the tracksideDouble-check the time with a vendor in case it has shifted.
09:00
Follow up with Meng red-pork rice or Thai Sawasdee chicken riceQueues still aren't too long at this point.
Late morning–midday

Cover the noodle stalls and snacks

10:00
Wander the fresh market and buy Mae Klong mackerel and palm sugar as giftsBuy the mackerel on your way out so you're not carrying it all day.
11:10
Wait for the late-morning train arriving at the station, grab shots from another angleIt gets busier this round, so leave yourself some space.
11:30
Lunchtime noodles — Kong Meng Jan egg noodles or Weera beef ballsThe old egg-noodle shop makes its own noodles; don't skip it.
Afternoon

Finish with snacks and the afternoon train

14:00
Khun Ae oyster omelette has just opened — stop for it hot, with coffee from Soul BakeryThe oyster omelette opens in the afternoon, so it's a good closer.
14:30
Wait for the afternoon train arriving at the station and take your last set of photosIf you're still hungry, loop back for any stalls you missed.
15:30
The train departs the station — one more round of folding umbrellas before you head offOn the way back you can stop at Luang Pho Ban Laem or a riverside café.

Getting there

It's about an hour and a half by car from Bangkok, or take a Mae Klong-line minivan from the New Southern Bus Terminal and get off right by the market. If you actually want to ride this train line, you have to connect from Ban Laem, crossing by boat at Tha Chalom–Ban Laem first — it's a route for people who enjoy the slow, old-fashioned way of travelling.

Plan a full day of eating around Samut Songkhram

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FAQ

What time does the train come through the Umbrella Market?

The train arrives at Mae Klong station around 08:30 · 11:10 · 14:30 · 17:40, and departs around 06:20 · 09:00 · 11:30 · 15:30. The arrival and departure times are when the whole market folds its umbrellas at once. Times can shift, so it's best to double-check with station staff or a vendor at the front of the market once you arrive.

Which stalls at Mae Klong Market are the best?

The ones locals bring up most are Kong Meng Jan egg noodles (over 60 years old), Krung Thai gao lao, Meng red-pork rice, Weera beef balls, and Thai Sawasdee chicken rice. For snacks, go for the Khun Ae oyster omelette and Mae Klong mackerel.

What time does Mae Klong Market open, and when should I go?

The market is open daily from roughly 6am–6pm. Most food stalls are morning stalls and many sell out before noon, so if you're coming to eat, aim for early to mid-morning, before 11am, and save the afternoon train for after.

Are the Umbrella Market and Mae Klong Market the same place?

Yes, they're one and the same. Mae Klong Market is the fresh market that straddles the railway line, and the 'Umbrella Market' name comes from the sight of vendors folding their umbrellas and pulling everything back as the train passes.

How much should I budget for a Mae Klong Market trip?

Eating comfortably, main dishes run about 40–70 THB a plate, with snacks from the low double digits to a little over a hundred. If you eat three or four things plus mackerel and palm sugar to take home, around 300–500 THB per person will leave you full with gifts to carry back.

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