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A 2-Day Archaeology Trip in Maha Sarakham
Tracing the Khmer Ku + Phra That Na Dun

Maha Sarakham isn't just a university town. Drive out toward Na Dun district and the city's edges and you'll find traces of the people who have lived here from the Dvaravati period all the way through the Khmer era — laterite sanctuaries that once served as hospitals for the Khmer empire, Buddha relics dug out of an earthen mound, and a museum that keeps the boundary stones and finds from the ancient city of Champa Si all in one place. We've laid out a real 2-day route you can actually follow, built around the actual opening hours and driving distances.

🛕 Khmer sanctuaries📜 Dvaravati–Bayon🚗 Self-drive trip
A 2-Day Archaeology Trip in Maha Sarakham Tracing the Khmer Ku + Phra That Na Dun

🔄 Updated 21 Jun 2026

Na Dun district in Maha Sarakham is the site of the ancient city of Champa Si (Nakhon Champa Si), a settlement that has been continuously inhabited since prehistoric times, through the Dvaravati period (roughly the 13th–16th centuries BE) and into the era when Khmer influence spread in during the 18th century BE. Within a radius of just a few dozen kilometres you'll find Dvaravati-era stone boundary markers (bai sema), Khmer laterite sanctuaries, and Buddha relics unearthed in more recent times — all in one area. This route suits anyone who loves history, enjoys photographing old architecture, and doesn't mind driving out of town.

Before you set off: a quick timeline

Get the chronology straight first and exploring becomes a lot more fun, because each stop belongs to a different era.

  • Dvaravati period (13th–16th centuries BE) — when Champa Si flourished, leaving behind city moats, stone boundary markers (bai sema), and terracotta votive tablets, now collected at the Nakhon Champa Si Museum.
  • Khmer era — Bayon style (around the 18th century BE) — under King Jayavarman VII, laterite 'arogayasala' (hospital stations) were built across Isan. Ku Santarat and Ku Ban Khwao are two of them in Maha Sarakham.
  • Modern era (from 1979 onward) — the Fine Arts Department and local villagers dug up Buddha relics from an earthen mound at Na Dun, which led to building the Phra That Na Dun stupa you see today.

Prep before you go

Several of the main sites are in Na Dun district, about 60–65 km from Maha Sarakham town — a little over an hour's drive. We'd recommend renting a car or using your own, because public transport to the smaller spots is sparse and doesn't run on time. Fill up the tank back in town.

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Day 1 — Khmer ku on the edge of town, then down to Na Dun

Day 1

From town to Khmer sanctuaries and Phra That Na Dun

08:30
Start at Wat Maha Chai in townDrop by the Northeastern Thailand local museum inside the temple, open daily 08:30–17:00. It holds stone boundary markers, old Buddha images, and palm-leaf manuscripts hundreds of years old — a good way to set the scene before heading out to see the real thing outside town.
10:00
Drive to Ku Ban Khwao (Prang Ku / Ku Mahathat)In Khwao subdistrict, Mueang district, about 13 km from town along the Chaeng Sanit road. It's a laterite sanctuary dating to around the 18th century BE, one of the arogayasala from King Jayavarman VII's time. Allow about 30–40 minutes to look around.
11:30
Set off for Na Dun districtIt's about 60–65 km from town to Na Dun, roughly a little over an hour. Along the way you can find a lunch spot around Wapi Pathum or Na Dun.
13:30
Phra That Na Dun (Isan Buddha Monthon)Located in Phra That subdistrict, Na Dun district, open daily 06:00–18:00. It enshrines the Buddha relics unearthed in 1979. The white stupa stands out across a wide open ground — easy to wander, take photos and pay respects. Dress modestly.
15:00
Nakhon Champa Si MuseumBehind Phra That Na Dun, open Monday–Saturday 08:00–16:00 (closed Sundays). It displays artefacts from the Dvaravati-era city of Champa Si — boundary markers, votive tablets, and the city's history. If you arrive on a Sunday you'll need to reshuffle the days and visit on another day instead.
16:30
Overnight in Mueang or Na DunMost accommodation is clustered in Maha Sarakham town. If you'd rather not double back, you can pick a small guesthouse around Na Dun–Wapi Pathum, though the options are fewer.

About Sundays

The Nakhon Champa Si Museum is closed on Sundays, while Phra That Na Dun and the various ku are open daily. If your trip falls on a Sunday, do the ku and the stupa on Day 1 and save the museum for Monday.

Day 2 — A closer look at the hospital stations and the ancient city

Day 2

Ku Santarat, Ku Noi, and traces of Champa Si

08:30
Ku Santarat, Na Dun districtIn Ku Santarat subdistrict, about 4 km northeast of the Na Dun district office. It's a Bayon-style Khmer laterite sanctuary that once served as an arogayasala in King Jayavarman VII's time (around 1157–1207). Come early for good light and few people.
09:30
Look around the pond–baray near Ku SantaratNortheast of the sanctuary there's a square pond roughly 10x12 metres, believed to be the baray or sacred water tank serving the arogayasala. Notice how the layout reveals the clear role of water in Khmer culture.
10:30
Ku Noi, Phra That subdistrictA small ruin within the Champa Si city group, not far from Phra That Na Dun. Worth a continuous stop to see how the ruins here are spread out in clusters rather than concentrated at a single point.
12:00
Lunch break around Na DunThere's a decent choice of made-to-order and Isan restaurants in the district, around 50–80 THB a dish. Try the local-style som tam and grilled chicken before heading back.
13:30
Head back to town, catching anything you missed on Day 1If the museum was closed on Day 1, or you'd still like more time at Ku Ban Khwao, use this afternoon to pick those up on the way back, reaching town right around evening.
16:00
Wrap up the trip at a café in townMaha Sarakham town is a university town with plenty of cafés to sit and rest. A good place to go back through your photos and sort your gear before the journey home.

How to get around and prepare for a smooth trip

  • Vehicle: this route relies mainly on your own car. The spots in Na Dun are kilometres apart and public transport doesn't reach everywhere. With no car, try chartering a local vehicle or hiring motorcycle taxis leg by leg.
  • Timing: plan to reach the Nakhon Champa Si Museum before 16:00 and avoid Sundays. The stupa and the ku are flexible since they're open daily.
  • Dress code: Phra That Na Dun is a sacred site, so dress modestly with shoulders and knees covered. For the ku out in the open sun, bring a hat and water.
  • Season: the late-rains-into-cool-season window (November–February) has the nicest weather and comfortable walking outdoors. Avoid midday in the hot season when the sun is fierce.

Make the trip more meaningful

Try starting at the museum or Wat Maha Chai before heading out to the real ku. You'll understand which era the boundary markers, votive tablets and laterite you see on site come from and what story they tell — and seeing the real thing afterward hits a lot harder.

Plan more places to stay and eat in Maha Sarakham

See the Maha Sarakham travel guide →

FAQ

How many days do you need for an archaeology trip in Maha Sarakham?

Two days and one night is about right. Day one covers Wat Maha Chai in town and Ku Ban Khwao, then down to Na Dun for Phra That Na Dun and the Nakhon Champa Si Museum. Day two digs into Ku Santarat, Ku Noi, and the traces of Champa Si. If you only have one day, pick just Phra That Na Dun and Ku Santarat, which are close together.

What are the opening hours for Phra That Na Dun and the Nakhon Champa Si Museum?

Phra That Na Dun is open daily 06:00–18:00. The Nakhon Champa Si Museum behind the stupa is open Monday to Saturday 08:00–16:00 and closed on Sundays, so plan to avoid Sundays if you want to get into the museum.

What's the difference between Ku Santarat and Ku Ban Khwao?

Both are laterite sanctuaries that once served as arogayasala — hospital stations — in King Jayavarman VII's time during the 18th century BE. The difference is location: Ku Ban Khwao is in Mueang district, about 13 km from town, while Ku Santarat is in Na Dun district, near Phra That Na Dun, making it easy to visit on the same day as Na Dun.

Can you do this route without your own car?

You can, but it's harder. The spots in Na Dun are far apart and public transport doesn't reach everywhere. The convenient way is to rent a car or charter a local vehicle for the day. On a tight budget you might use motorcycle taxis to connect the spots within Na Dun district, but arrange pickup times in advance.

What time of year is best to go?

The late-rains-into-cool-season window, around November to February, has the nicest weather and lets you walk the open-air ku comfortably without it being too hot. If you come in the hot season, go early and late and avoid midday when the sun is fierce, since most ku have no shade.

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