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Mae Hong Son Loop
Chiang Mai–Pai–Pang Ung–Mae Hong Son

The Mae Hong Son Loop is a roughly 600-kilometre circle through northern Thailand. You leave Chiang Mai, climb to Pai over the famous 762 curves, swing west to pick up Pang Ung and Ban Rak Thai, drop into Mae Hong Son town, then circle back via Mae Sariang. This plan is built around using Pai as your first base, drifting from town to town and collecting sights one at a time rather than blasting through to get it over with. We've laid it out over 4 days and 3 nights, with timings, real entry fees, and straight talk about what the mountain roads are actually like.

🛵 Self-drive, 600 km🌫️ 762 curves up to Pai⛰️ Pang Ung–Ban Rak Thai
Mae Hong Son Loop Chiang Mai–Pai–Pang Ung–Mae Hong Son

🔄 Updated 21 Jun 2026

The two main roads of this loop are Highway 1095 (Chiang Mai–Pai–Pang Mapha–Mae Hong Son) and Highway 108 (Mae Hong Son–Mae Sariang–Hot–Chiang Mai). Both are paved the whole way and an ordinary sedan handles them fine, but the bends are constant and genuinely steep — especially the Chiang Mai-to-Pai stretch, which is counted at 762 curves. Anyone in the passenger seat who gets carsick easily should take something for it beforehand. We suggest driving counter-clockwise — Pai first — because the nastiest curves come on day one while your body is still fresh, leaving the wider, gentler Highway 108 for the final day home.

One thing to be honest about before you plan: the sea of fog and the mountain views along this whole route depend entirely on the weather on the day. Some mornings the fog rolls in thick and beautiful; other mornings it's clear with no fog at all. The fog shows up most often and the views are crispest from November through February. March and April are the burning season in the north, when haze usually blankets the views and makes breathing harder — if you're sensitive to dust or have respiratory issues, avoid this window.

Before you set off

Fill the tank in Chiang Mai and top up every time you pass through Pai and Mae Hong Son, because petrol stations are far apart along the Pai–Pang Mapha–Mae Hong Son stretch. Check your tyre pressure and brakes properly. If you rent a motorbike in Pai, photograph its condition before you take it every single time. And carry plenty of small cash — most viewpoints, raft fees, and little shops take cash only.

The 4-day, 3-night loop at a glance

  • Day 1 — Chiang Mai up to Pai, with a stop at Huai Nam Dang on the way; reach Pai mid-afternoon, see the Big Buddha at dusk, then hit the walking street
  • Day 2 — Catch the Yun Lai fog over Pai at sunrise, then drive to Mae Hong Son with a stop at Lod Cave; climb Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu in the evening
  • Day 3 — A full nature day: pre-dawn raft ride through the fog at Pang Ung, then Yunnanese tea at Ban Rak Thai, back to sleep in Mae Hong Son
  • Day 4 — Loop back to Chiang Mai via Mae Sariang; Highway 108 is wider with fewer curves, an easier way to close the trip
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Book the activities in your Pai trip ahead

Booking online ahead on Klook or GetYourGuide is usually cheaper than the gate and skips the queue. Pick only the experiences you actually want — prices and availability are shown live on each site.

🎟️ See all Pai tours & activities (Klook)

Day 1 — Chiang Mai up to Pai, via Huai Nam Dang

Day one has the most curves of the whole loop. It's only about 135 kilometres, but it takes a real 3–4 hours of driving because you're inching around the bends. Leave a little early so you can hit Huai Nam Dang before the morning fog burns off.

Day 1

Chiang Mai → Huai Nam Dang → Pai (~135 km)

07:30
Leave Chiang Mai on Chotana Road (Hwy 107) up through Mae Rim–Mae Malai, then turn onto Highway 1095Grab khao soi or sticky rice with grilled pork to line your stomach first — shops are scarce on the early part of the route
09:30
Stop at the Huai Nam Dang viewpoint (Huai Nam Dang National Park), the route's best-known sea-of-fog spotPark entry for Thais is around 40 THB. The fog is best on cool-season mornings; come late and it's already thinning. There's hot coffee for sale at the viewpoint
11:30
Carry on through the 762 curves to Pai, with toilet breaks at the roadside stops along the wayThis is the most carsick-inducing stretch of the trip. Drive slowly; passengers in the back should look at the far distance, outside the car — it helps
13:00
Reach Pai, check in, and have lunch around the walking street or at a northern-food spot in townPai stays run from budget hostels to riverside resorts with rice-paddy views on the Pai River. In the cool season, book ahead
16:30
Head up to the Big Buddha at Wat Phra That Mae Yen for a view over the whole Pai valley in the late lightThe large white Phra Phuttha Lokuttara Maha Muni sits on the hill; it's about 350 steps up. Go in the evening for the sunset. Free entry
18:30
Walk the Pai walking street — street food, cafés, live musicOpen every evening, lively in the cool season. Snacks start in the tens of baht, and you can make dinner of it right here

If you get carsick

The Chiang Mai–Pai stretch is curve after curve with barely a break. If you're prone to motion sickness, take something 30 minutes before you leave, sit up front if you can, look far down the road, sip water steadily, and avoid your phone along the way. The Chiang Mai–Pai minivans make one mid-route stop to let everyone stretch.

Day 2 — Pai to Mae Hong Son, via Lod Cave

Day two runs about 110 kilometres and is still curvy mountain road. Catch the Pai fog in the morning first, then drift down toward Mae Hong Son. If you get an early start you can fit in Lod Cave at Pang Mapha — a roadside highlight a lot of people skip because they're rushing.

Day 2

Pai → Lod Cave → Mae Hong Son (~110 km)

05:30
Head up to the Yun Lai viewpoint above Santichon village and wait for the morning fogAbout 6 km from Pai town, entry 20 THB. Fog usually thickens around 7–8 am, but it depends on the actual weather — some days are clear. There's warm Chinese tea while you wait for the light; bring a warm layer
08:30
Back into Pai for breakfast/coffee, then pack up and hit the roadPai has plenty of brunch cafés to take it slow before you go, and there are mountain-view cafés to stop at on the way out of town
10:00
Stop at Lod Cave (Pang Mapha district), a large stalactite-and-stalagmite cave where you hire a lamp-carrying guide and cross the stream inside on a bamboo raftGuide plus raft runs around 150–450 THB per group depending on group size and how many chambers you walk. Allow about 1–1.5 hours; it's a fair detour off the main road
13:00
Lunch around Pang Mapha/Sop Pong, then drive on into Mae Hong Son townTry Shan (Tai Yai) dishes like small-bowl khao soi, Shan-style noodles, or grilled fermented soybean discs
15:30
Reach Mae Hong Son, check in, then stop by Nong Jong Kham to see Wat Jong Kham and Wat Jong Klang — Shan architecture in the middle of townThe two temples share one wall beside the lake at the centre of town; easy to wander and photograph
17:30
Climb to Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu for the evening view over Mae Hong Son nestled in its mountain basinThis is the best sunset and town-view spot in Mae Hong Son, and you can drive all the way up to the top
19:00
Walk the Mae Hong Son walking street along Nong Jong Kham and eat local Shan foodThe mood is far quieter than Pai — good for people who like small, slow towns

Day 3 — Pang Ung and Ban Rak Thai, a full nature day

No long drive today. Use Mae Hong Son as your base and swing out to Mok Champae sub-district north of town to pick up Pang Ung and Ban Rak Thai, which sit on the same road — the nature highlight of the entire loop. Pang Ung is about 15 kilometres from town along Highway 1095 on the Mok Champae side; the last part of the road is narrow and winding, so drive carefully.

Day 3

Mae Hong Son → Pang Ung → Ban Rak Thai (round trip ~80 km)

05:30
Set off before dawn to Pang Ung (Pang Tong Royal Project 2) and take a bamboo raft out to watch the fog drift over the lake among the pinesThe fog is best in the early hours before 8 am. Park entry is around 20 THB per adult and the raft is around 150 THB for two people. The cool season is stunning and properly cold — bring enough warm clothing
08:30
Breakfast around Pang Ung, then drive up to Ban Rak Thai, a Yunnanese Chinese village on the Myanmar borderThis stretch of road is narrow and steep and hard for two cars to pass; drive slowly and sound your horn before blind curves
10:00
Explore Ban Rak Thai — taste oolong tea, eat braised pork leg with mantou and Yunnanese food by the reservoir, walk among the tiled-roof earthen housesSeveral tea houses and Yunnanese restaurants ring the reservoir; you can taste tea before buying any to take home. You can also stay overnight here if you want an extra night
13:00
Drive back into Mae Hong Son town and stop for lunchIf you've got the energy, stop at Wat Nam Hu on the way, or just head back to town and rest up for the long drive tomorrow
16:00
Optional add-on — Su Tong Pae Bridge (a bamboo bridge across the rice fields south of town) in the late light, or just relax in townIf you prefer to take it slow, stay and potter around town — tomorrow is the longest drive of the trip

Mexican sunflower fields

If you come from mid-November to early December, stop at the Mexican sunflower fields at Doi Mae U Kho (Khun Yuam district) on the final-day drive back. The yellow blooms cover the whole mountain — it's the peak season for Mae Hong Son in the entire year.

Day 4 — Loop back to Chiang Mai via Mae Sariang

The final day is the longest drive — about 270 kilometres, heading south on Highway 108 through Khun Yuam–Mae Sariang, then back up to Chiang Mai. Highway 108 is much wider with far fewer curves than the Pai side, so the driving is a lot easier — a good way to close the trip when your body is starting to tire from the first three days.

Day 4

Mae Hong Son → Mae Sariang → Chiang Mai (~270 km)

08:00
Leave Mae Hong Son heading south on Highway 108 through Khun Yuam (stop at the Doi Mae U Kho sunflower fields if it's the season)Fill the tank before you go — petrol stations are far apart on this stretch
11:30
Reach Mae Sariang, stop for lunch, and wander the town's small marketMae Sariang is a quiet halfway town with khao soi and noodle shops to choose from
13:00
Continue on Highway 108 through Hot–Chom Thong toward Chiang MaiIf you have the time and energy to spare, branch up to Doi Inthanon (Chom Thong district) for the highest peak in Thailand — but you'll reach Chiang Mai after dark
16:30
Reach Chiang Mai, return the rental car (if you rented), and finish the loopAnyone who completes the full loop can pick up a 'Mae Hong Son Loop conqueror' certificate from an office in Mae Hong Son town the day before leaving — a fun little souvenir

Entry fees and a rough budget

  • Huai Nam Dang park entry for Thais around 40 THB · Yun Lai 20 THB
  • Lod Cave guide + raft around 150–450 THB per group depending on group size and chambers
  • Pang Ung adult entry around 20 THB + raft around 150 THB for two people
  • Big Buddha at Wat Phra That Mae Yen · Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu · Nong Jong Kham · Su Tong Pae Bridge free entry
  • Car rental in Chiang Mai around 800–1,500 THB/day, or motorbike rental around 150–300 THB/day, plus a fair amount for fuel over the whole loop

Prices are estimates

Entry fees, raft fees, and rental rates can rise depending on the season and whoever's running each spot. Keep small cash on you, because many sites and little shops along the route take cash only, and ATMs outside the towns are hard to find.

Three days or five days — which is better?

The 4-day, 3-night plan above is the sweet spot for most people — you get to actually see things without driving yourself into the ground. But if you're short on time or have extra to spare, here's how to adjust.

Short on time

3 days, 2 nights

Cut the nature day at Pang Ung–Ban Rak Thai: one night in Pai, one night in Mae Hong Son, then loop back. Good if you're short on time, but it'll feel like more driving than sightseeing.

Recommended

4 days, 3 nights

The plan we recommend — Pai, Lod Cave, Mae Hong Son, Pang Ung, Ban Rak Thai, and Highway 108 home. The pacing is just right.

No rush

5 days, 4 nights

Add another night in Pai for a full day of cafés and waterfalls, or stay over in Ban Rak Thai for a night without rushing, to catch the village in the early morning.

Getting ready for this loop

  • Best season — November to February: cool air, thick fog, sunflowers in bloom. Avoid March–April, when wildfire haze hangs heavy over the whole north and affects both the views and your breathing
  • Vehicle — a sedan handles it easily, paved the whole way on the main roads; but if you're on a motorbike you should have mountain-riding experience, wear a full-face helmet, and avoid riding at night since there's little street lighting
  • Accommodation — book ahead in the cool season and on long weekends; Pai and Ban Rak Thai fill up fast
  • Cash — carry plenty; small shops, viewpoints, and raft fees mostly take cash, and ATMs outside the towns are hard to find
  • Warm clothes — mornings and evenings in the hills are genuinely cold, especially Pang Ung and Yun Lai in the cool season, with some mornings below 10°C

Want a well-placed stay in Pai to base your loop from?

See 10 recommended Pai stays →

FAQ

Should I drive the Mae Hong Son Loop from Pai counter-clockwise or clockwise?

We recommend counter-clockwise — Pai first, then pick up Pang Ung–Mae Hong Son and loop back via Mae Sariang — because the nastiest curves, the 762 bends between Chiang Mai and Pai, come on day one while your body is still fresh. The wider, gentler Highway 108 is then saved for the final day home, when you're starting to tire.

Can I drive this loop in a sedan, or do I need a motorbike?

An ordinary sedan handles it fine. The main roads (Highways 1095 and 108) are paved the whole way; there are just a lot of steep curves, so drive slowly and watch for oncoming traffic. The narrowest sections are the climbs to Ban Rak Thai and Pang Ung. If you're on a motorbike, you should have mountain-riding experience first.

Am I guaranteed to see the sea of fog at Pang Ung and Pai?

No — it depends on the weather each day. The fog shows up most often and looks best from November through February. At Pang Ung and Yun Lai it tends to be thick in the early hours before 8 am, but some days are clear with no fog at all, which is normal for the mountains.

I get very carsick — will I survive this loop?

The Chiang Mai–Pai stretch really is curve after curve with barely a break. If you're prone to motion sickness, take something 30 minutes before you leave, sit up front if you can, look far down the road, skip your phone, sip water steadily, and have the driver keep it smooth and unhurried — it helps a lot. The rest of the loop on the Mae Hong Son–Mae Sariang side has gentler curves than the Pai section.

Can I do this loop in March–April?

You can, but accept that it's the burning season in the north — wildfire haze usually blankets the mountain views along the whole route and affects your breathing. Anyone sensitive to dust or with respiratory issues should avoid it. If you want crisp views and clear fog, the cool season (Nov–Feb) is far better.

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