🔄 Updated 21 Jun 2026
Say Ranong and most people think of the hot springs, Koh Phayam, or the seafood. But there's another spot locals like to visit on their days off that outsiders still haven't fully discovered: Phukao Ya, the open hills with no trees to block the view, where you can see for miles. Its look changes so much by season it feels like a different place — green in the rains, golden in the dry months. It's an easy spot for photos and a relaxed walk, no hard scrambling: kids can handle it and grown-ups can manage it.
What is Phukao Ya, and why is it so bare?
Phukao Ya is a set of low hills — about three or four of them in a row. The odd thing is that almost no large trees grow on them at all, just grass covering the whole area, which is why people call it the bald hills. Part of the reason is the soil and rock, which make it hard for big trees to take hold, and the area has long been used as grazing pasture for cattle, so grass is the main thing that grows. The side benefit is open grass hills you can walk up with nothing blocking the view around you.
Because the hills are low and there are paths linking each one, climbing up isn't as tough as a real mountain. Even if you haven't exercised in a while, you can manage it — just take it slow. From the ridge you can see the inland mountain range, and on a clear day you can make out the Andaman coastline in the distance. It's a panoramic view you don't often get this close to a town.
Why it's also called the two-tone grass hill
Some people call it the two-tone grass hill because the grass changes color so clearly with the seasons — lush green in the rains, golden in the dry months. In the changeover between seasons you'll sometimes see a green zone and a yellow zone on the same hill, so a photo can catch two contrasting tones in one frame.
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Grass that changes color by season — which months give which colors
This is the main draw, and it's worth checking before you plan, because Phukao Ya looks completely different depending on the time of year. Ranong is a wet place — rain for eight months, sun for four, with rain almost all year — which keeps the hills green longer than many spots, but the trade-off is a higher chance of getting rained on.
- Rainy season (May–October) — the grass is lush green across the whole hill, like a meadow abroad. It's the prettiest stretch if you're after that green look, but you'll be rolling the dice on the weather and should dodge the heavy-rain days. Walking in the clear window after the rain eases off gets you fresh color and cool, comfortable air.
- Dry season (November–April) — the grass starts turning golden and the whole hillside takes on a warm tone. Backlit shots in the late afternoon look great, the skies are clear more often, and it's an easier walk — good for anyone who wants a sunny day.
- Season changeover — in early dry season or late rains, some hills are green and others are starting to yellow, giving you both colors in one frame. A lot of people love this window because you get both tones.
Straight talk on the state of the grass
The color and greenness of the grass depend on that year's rain and exactly when you go — it's not that every day in the rainy season is perfectly green or every dry-season day is beautifully golden. Sometimes the grass has been cut or has dried out in patches. Before you go, check the latest photos on Ranong travel pages or the location tag to see the real state of things that week.
Getting to Phukao Ya
Phukao Ya is in Moo 1, Ngao subdistrict, Mueang Ranong district, about 11–13 kilometers from town, along Highway 4 (Phetkasem, the Ranong–Phang Nga route). It's very easy to spot because it sits directly across from Ngao Waterfall. Driving from town takes about 15–20 minutes, and driving yourself is the most convenient option since public transport doesn't reach it easily.
- Self-drive / car rental — the most convenient. Take Phetkasem heading toward Phang Nga, go past Ngao Waterfall, and there's parking at the base of the hill. Drop a pin for "Phukao Ya Ranong" in Google Maps and it'll take you straight there.
- Motorbike rental — there are rental shops in Ranong town, and it's a good fit for backpackers. The distance is short and the ride is easy, but watch out for slippery roads when it rains.
- Private car / taxi — if you're not driving, you can hire a car round-trip from town. Agree on the price before you set off; it's often bundled with Ngao Waterfall across the road into one trip.
- Songthaew (shared truck) — there are routes along Phetkasem Road, but they're infrequent and you have to walk in from the mouth of the road. Plan your return well; not recommended if you're short on time.
Pair it with Ngao Waterfall in one trip
Because Phukao Ya sits right across from Ngao Waterfall, a lot of people visit both back-to-back in half a day. Walk around and shoot photos at Phukao Ya in the morning or late afternoon when the sun isn't harsh, then cross over to cool off in the water at Ngao Waterfall. It's a tidy route with no doubling back.
Opening hours, entry fee, and facilities
Phukao Ya is an open area you can enter any day — there's no gate that closes on a schedule. But the right time to actually walk it is early morning and late afternoon before sunset, because the midday sun is intense and there's no tree cover at all. On the entry fee, keep an open mind: sometimes it's free, and sometimes there's a small upkeep fee of around 20–30 THB depending on how the area is being maintained at the time. Carrying small cash is the easiest way to handle it.
- Best time to walk — morning 6:00–9:00 or late afternoon 16:00–18:30, when the sun is gentle, the light is good, and photos come out with rich color.
- Entry fee — free at some times, a roughly 20–30 THB upkeep fee at others; keep small cash on hand.
- Parking — there's a lot at the base of the hill, and it's a short walk up onto the slopes from there.
- Facilities — this is a natural area; shops and restrooms are limited. Bring your own drinking water and take care of any business before you head up.
Things to do and photo spots on the grass hills
Phukao Ya doesn't have built structures or a full lineup of activities like a theme park. Its charm is the simplicity — open grass, wind, wide sky — and it suits spending time slowly rather than a quick check-in and dash. Here's what people like to do.
- Walk up for the 360° view — follow the path up to the ridge and you'll see the inland mountains and a faint line of the Andaman coast on a clear day.
- Photograph the grass hills — the most popular angle is standing on the ridge with the grass as a wide backdrop, or shooting backlit in the late afternoon so the edges of the grass shimmer gold.
- Fly a kite — the wind on the hills is strong and steady, making it a kite-flying spot locals like. Good to bring kids.
- Picnic and hang out — lay down a mat and relax in the breeze on the slope; Ranong locals often picnic here on weekend evenings.
- Watch the sunset — on a clear late afternoon, the last light hitting the golden grass is especially lovely.
How to shoot for a wide-open look
Since nothing blocks the hills, putting a small figure far off on the ridge and filling the frame with sky and grass gives you that vast, meadow-abroad feeling. Try shooting in the slanting light of early morning or late afternoon, when long shadows across the grass add depth to the shot.
A half-day at Phukao Ya, paired with Ngao Waterfall
Phukao Ya isn't big — about one to two hours is enough to walk around and shoot photos. It pairs neatly with Ngao Waterfall across the road for a half day. We've laid out two versions so you can pick based on whether you're a morning or an evening person.
Morning person — catch Phukao Ya before the harsh sun
Evening person — catch the golden light and the sunset
What to prep before you go, and what to know
Phukao Ya is an easy, relaxed spot, but there are a few things worth knowing before you go so you don't waste the trip. We'll be straight about both the upsides and the limits.
- Avoid the midday sun — there's no shade anywhere on the hill, and the midday sun is harsh and very hot. Come in the morning or late afternoon.
- Bring sun protection and water — a hat, sunglasses, sunscreen, and drinking water are essential since there's nowhere to take cover.
- Comfortable walking shoes — the paths are dirt and grass and can get slippery and muddy in the rains, so wear shoes with good grip.
- Watch the weather in the rains — Ranong's skies change fast, so check the forecast first; if it's very overcast you may not get the distant view.
- Pack out your trash — this is a natural area and grazing pasture, so help carry your trash back out to keep the hills clean.
Straight up: if you're expecting full facilities, cafes, restaurants, or staged photo setups, this might not be the place. But if you want somewhere open and breezy with wide views, easy walking, and natural photos that need no dressing up, Phukao Ya delivers — and it's easier to reach than a lot of viewpoints in Ranong.
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