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Chaiya 2-Day Itinerary
Phra Borommathat, Suan Mokkh & the Old Town

Chaiya is an old district in the north of Surat Thani, once the center of the Srivijaya kingdom more than a thousand years ago. What remains today is Phra Borommathat Chaiya, a Srivijaya-style stupa over a thousand years old, and Suan Mokkh, the forest monastery of Buddhadasa Bhikkhu where people from all over the world come to practice. This is an unhurried 2-day plan built around temples, Srivijaya art, and quiet walks through the old town, with real opening hours and a souvenir to take home.

🛕 Temple route🏛️ Srivijaya old town🧘 Suan Mokkh meditation
Chaiya 2-Day Itinerary Phra Borommathat, Suan Mokkh & the Old Town

🔄 Updated 21 Jun 2026

Plenty of people only pass through Chaiya on the train south and keep going, even though Chaiya can easily fill a full day or two. The draw is three things sitting very close together: the great stupa, the museum, and Suan Mokkh, with no more than 10–15 minutes of driving between each. We've laid it out as a 2-day trip, because if you really want to understand Suan Mokkh you need time to sit with the place, not just stop for a photo and leave.

Before you go — where Chaiya is and how to get there

Chaiya district sits north of Surat Thani town, about 50–60 km up Highway 41 toward Chumphon, roughly an hour by car. Without your own vehicle, the southern railway line stops at Chaiya station (tickets from around ฿58 from Surat Thani / Phunphin station), but the station is a fair way from the cluster of temples, so once you step off the train you'll need to grab a motorbike taxi or a local hired car from there.

Straight talk

Chaiya is easiest with your own car or a rental from Surat Thani town, because the three main sites are spread along Highway 41 and local public transport in the district is sparse and not on schedule. If you don't drive, hiring a car or taxi round-trip gives you much better control over your timing.

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Day 1 — Phra Borommathat Chaiya, the old town, and the museum

Day 1

Pay respects at the great stupa + see Srivijaya art

08:30
Leave Surat Thani town and head north on Highway 41There are gas stations and roadside cafes along the way to fuel up before you reach Chaiya
09:30
Arrive at Wat Phra Borommathat Chaiya Ratchaworawihan and pay respects at the Srivijaya-style stupa, over a thousand years oldOpen 08:00–16:00 daily · dress modestly and remove your shoes before stepping onto the stupa terrace
10:30
Walk the cloister gallery to see old Buddha images and Srivijaya architecture, of which only a few examples survive in ThailandThe morning sun is still gentle, so you can photograph the stupa nicely without it being too hot
11:30
Cross over to Chaiya National Museum next to the temple to see real Srivijaya sculptureThe highlight is the replica of the Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara, a masterpiece of Srivijaya art (the original is in the Bangkok National Museum)
12:30
Lunch in Chaiya town — try bold southern curry-over-rice or a stir-fry shop near the marketChaiya is a small town and shops close in the afternoon, so it's best to eat before 1:30 pm
14:00
Stroll Chaiya's old town, looking at the old wooden shophouses and the quiet, low-key atmosphereThis isn't a staged tourist old town — it's a town where people still actually live, so take it slow, no need to rush
16:00
Stop at a souvenir shop for the well-known GI-status Chaiya salted eggs, like one of the old established shops in townChaiya salted eggs are known for their rich yolk · buy them raw or pre-boiled, both keep well
17:30
Check in to a place in Chaiya, or drive back into Surat Thani town for the nightAccommodation in Chaiya is limited and basic, so if you want more options, sleep in Surat Thani town and drive over early the next day

Day 2 — Suan Mokkh, a day of quiet

Day two is given over to Suan Mokkh. Suan Mokkhaphalaram, officially named Wat Than Nam Lai, was founded by Buddhadasa Bhikkhu and sits on Khao Phutthathong, beside Highway 41 around kilometer 134. It's not like an ordinary temple — there's no ornate ordination hall, just a natural forest designed for people to learn the Dhamma simply.

Day 2

Suan Mokkh + the Spiritual Theatre

08:30
Arrive at Suan Mokkh and walk quietly into the forest groundsOpen 08:00–17:00 daily, free entry · this is a place of quiet, so keep your voice down and stay composed throughout
09:00
Visit the Spiritual Theatre, a building displaying Dhamma riddle-pictures and images of the Buddha's life from around the worldIt's a highlight Buddhadasa intended for people to look at and reflect on — you can spend a long time walking through it
10:30
Walk to the Curved Stone Court, where Buddhadasa once gave teachings in the middle of the forestThe atmosphere is shady and cool; sit and rest under the trees and you can genuinely hear the sounds of the forest
11:30
Stop by the museum / Dhamma hall to see the history and work of BuddhadasaRead about his ideas on letting go and nature, which made Suan Mokkh known around the world
12:30
Light lunch along Highway 41 near Suan Mokkh, then restThere aren't many shops around here — if you want a proper meal, head back into Chaiya town for more options
14:00
If you're interested in practice, stop by the International Dhamma Hermitage (Suan Mokkh International), which is nearbyIt runs a 10-day Anapanasati retreat in English every month (starting around the 1st and the 19th), with advance registration and a stay-over at the center required
15:30
Drive back into Surat Thani town, or continue to Don Sak pier to cross to the islandsChaiya fits well before a Koh Samui / Pha Ngan trip since it's on the main southern route

Real opening hours — check before you plan

  • Wat Phra Borommathat Chaiya — open daily 08:00–16:00 · free entry (donations as you wish)
  • Suan Mokkh (Wat Than Nam Lai) — open daily 08:00–17:00 · free entry
  • Chaiya National Museum — open Wed–Fri 09:00–16:00 · closed Mon–Tue and public holidays · Thais ฿20, foreigners ฿100
  • Suan Mokkh International (meditation) — 10-day Anapanasati retreat every month · advance registration and stay-over required

Watch the museum's closing days

The spot people trip up on most is Chaiya National Museum, which is closed Monday–Tuesday and on public holidays. If you're set on seeing real Srivijaya art, don't plan your trip for a Monday or Tuesday, or you'll only get to see the temple next door.

Make Chaiya worth it — what to pair it with

Island add-on

On to Koh Samui–Pha Ngan

Chaiya is on the main southern route — once you're done, drive down to Don Sak pier and cross to the islands. It works well as the first day of an island trip.

Base for the night

Surat Thani town

Sleep in town, eat seafood and riverside food along the Tapi River, then drive to Chaiya early the next morning. There are far more places to stay and eat here.

Nature side

Khao Sok–Cheow Lan Lake

If you have several days, you can follow the temple route with the nature side at Khao Sok — but it's in the opposite direction from Chaiya, so set aside a separate day.

A souvenir to take home — Chaiya salted eggs

When you're in Chaiya, the souvenir to buy is Chaiya salted eggs, a well-known GI product of Surat Thani, prized for an especially rich yolk because the ducks are raised in the rice fields around Chaiya. Souvenir shops in town and along Highway 41 sell them both raw and pre-boiled ready to eat, and some shops also stock other southern souvenirs. They're easy to take home since they keep well.

Keep planning a full Surat Thani trip

See the Surat Thani travel guide →

FAQ

How many days do you need for Chaiya?

If you want to see the great stupa, the museum, and really soak in Suan Mokkh, 2 days is ideal. But if you're short on time, a quick 1-day visit can work too, since the three main sites are very close together — no more than 10–15 minutes of driving between them.

Which days is Chaiya National Museum open?

It's open only Wednesday to Friday, 09:00–16:00, and closed Monday, Tuesday, and public holidays. Admission is 20 baht for Thais and 100 baht for foreigners. If you're set on seeing Srivijaya art, don't plan your trip for a Monday or Tuesday.

Is Suan Mokkh free to enter, and what should I wear?

Suan Mokkh is open daily 08:00–17:00 with free entry. Dress modestly, covering shoulders and knees, and most importantly stay composed and keep quiet, since it's a place for meditation practice, not a noisy photo spot.

How do I join a retreat at Suan Mokkh International?

Suan Mokkh International runs a 10-day Anapanasati retreat in English every month (starting around the 1st and the 19th). You have to register and stay at the center for the whole course. It's best to check the latest details and conditions with Suan Mokkh before you travel.

How do you get to Chaiya from Surat Thani town?

It's about 50–60 km up Highway 41, roughly an hour by car. The southern railway line stops at Chaiya station (tickets from around 58 baht), but the station is a way from the temple cluster, so you'll need a local ride from there. If you want easy control over your timing, having your own car or hiring one round-trip is best.

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