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Tracing Sankhaburi Old Town
A 2-Day Trip Through the Ancient Temples of Mueang Phraek

Sankhaburi is a small district of Chai Nat that quietly holds an ancient city more than seven hundred years old. Its old name was Mueang Phraek, or Phraek Si Racha — once a royal twin city to Chai Nat in the Ayutthaya era, and named in King Ramkhamhaeng's Stone Inscription No. 1. What survives today is a cluster of abandoned temples and stupas that art historians rank as master craftsmanship. We've put together an unhurried 2-day, 1-night route that gives you time to see every temple, stop for local food, and pick up a couple more of Chai Nat's signature temples along the way.

🛕 Ancient temples of Mueang Phraek🗿 Dvaravati–Ayutthaya era stupas🚗 Self-drive road trip
Tracing Sankhaburi Old Town A 2-Day Trip Through the Ancient Temples of Mueang Phraek

🔄 Updated 21 Jun 2026

Sankhaburi old town is easier to explore than you'd expect. Nearly all the important temples sit within Phraek Si Racha sub-district, about 20–25 km from Chai Nat town, just a few minutes apart by car. What draws people from far away are the stupas and prangs that genuinely survived from the ancient city — not modern reconstructions. If you're into history and craftsmanship, this place delivers the real thing, quietly, with no tour crowds.

Why trace Mueang Phraek

Phraek Si Racha is an ancient riverside city on the Chao Phraya basin where people settled as far back as the Dvaravati period, then on through Lopburi, Sukhothai and Ayutthaya. In the reign of King Maha Thammaracha I, Ayutthaya marched in, took the city and renamed Phraek as Mueang Sankh, making it a royal twin city to Chai Nat. Because it passed through so many eras, the temples here blend several schools of craftsmanship in one place — from octagonal Hariphunchai-style stupas and Lopburi-style prangs to Sukhothai-style lotus-bud (phum khao bin) stupas.

  • Wat Phra Kaew — an octagonal stupa on a square base that many texts call the "queen of stupas" for having the finest proportions in its group.
  • Wat Mahathat — the signature temple of Mueang Phraek, with three carambola-petal prangs in Lopburi style, built before the Ayutthaya era.
  • Wat Song Phi Nong — a historic site where you can see Sukhothai and Ayutthaya styles blended in a single structure.
  • Wat Tanot Lai — a main stupa in the Sukhothai lotus-bud form, dating to roughly the 20th Buddhist century.

Before you set off

These abandoned temples are open-air historic sites — no tickets, no fixed opening hours. But the sun is brutal from late morning into the afternoon, so go early before 10 a.m. or late afternoon after 3 p.m., when walking is easier and the photos look better. Bring a hat, water, and shoes you don't mind walking across grass in.

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Book the activities in your Chai Nat trip ahead

Booking online ahead on Klook or GetYourGuide is usually cheaper than the gate and skips the queue. Pick only the experiences you actually want — prices and availability are shown live on each site.

🎟️ See all Chai Nat tours & activities (Klook)

Day 1 — A full day in Sankhaburi old town

Day 1

Tracing the ancient temples of Mueang Phraek

08:30
Leave Chai Nat town and head for Sankhaburi districtAbout 20–25 km, roughly 30–40 minutes of driving. Fill up on fuel and grab drinking water before you reach the temple area.
09:15
Wat Phra Kaew — see the "queen of stupas"The highlight of the trip. Walk around the octagonal stupa, look out for the niches and stucco work; inside there's Luang Pho Chai to pay respects to. Allow about 45 minutes to an hour.
10:30
Wat Mahathat (Wat Hua Mueang) — the carambola-petal prangsAlso in Phraek Si Racha sub-district, a short drive on. Three prangs share one base — a landmark of Mueang Phraek.
11:30
Wat Song Phi Nong — Sukhothai and Ayutthaya styles combinedA quiet, shady historic site, perfect for a slow walk while reading the Fine Arts Department information boards.
12:15
Lunch break in Sankhaburi townStop at a noodle or made-to-order shop around Sankhaburi market — like Pa Sim, a made-to-order noodle spot known for its homemade fermented-tofu dipping sauce, at friendly prices.
13:30
Wat Tanot Lai — the lotus-bud stupaA Sukhothai-style lotus-bud stupa, a spot fans of Sukhothai craftsmanship shouldn't skip.
14:30
Wander the remaining ruined temples of Mueang Phraek as you likeThere are still Wat Tha Sao, Wat Phraya Phraek, Wat Chan and Wat Sanam Chai scattered in the same area. Pick which to visit based on your energy and the sun.
16:00
Rest at a riverside café in SankhaburiThis area has relaxed riverside cafés such as De Best Café — sip a coffee to close out the day before heading back to your hotel.
18:00
Return to your hotel in Chai Nat townChai Nat town has more hotels and accommodation to choose from than Sankhaburi district.

About accommodation

Sankhaburi district has few places to stay. Most people base themselves in Chai Nat town and drive back and forth — it's close, under half an hour, and works out better than forcing a stay in the district.

Day 2 — Chai Nat's signature temples and the Chao Phraya

On day two you move away from Mueang Phraek to take in Chai Nat town's important temples and the riverside temples that Thai travelers visit to pay respects all year round. You finish at a museum that keeps real artifacts from the ancient cities around here. If you're curious about the backstory of yesterday's ruined temples, this place helps connect the pieces.

Day 2

Famous riverside temples + the museum

09:00
Wat Thammamun Worawihan, at the foot of Khao Thammamun by the Chao PhrayaA royal temple and one of Chai Nat's signature sites. Pay respects to Luang Pho Thammachak, a standing Buddha in the "forbidding the relatives" pose with a dharma wheel in the right palm. The river view is lovely in the morning.
10:30
Wat Pak Khlong Makham Thao — tracing Luang Pu SukhA famous riverside temple on the Chao Phraya, once the residence of Luang Pu Sukh, a renowned monk. It has old mural paintings to see, and it's just a short drive on from Wat Thammamun.
12:00
Roadside lunchOn the way back into town there are made-to-order shops and river-fish restaurants to stop at. Go with the ones where plenty of locals are sitting.
13:30
Wat Phra Borommathat WorawihanAn old temple of the town, home to a revered relic stupa, and one of the temples once used for the royal sacred-water ceremony.
14:15
Chai Nat Muni National MuseumLocated within Wat Phra Borommathat. Open Wed–Sun, 09:00–16:00, closed Mon–Tue. Admission 10 THB for Thais, 80 THB for foreigners. It holds a full collection of antiquities found in Chai Nat and Mueang Phraek.
15:30
Close the trip with some souvenirs before heading homeChai Nat is known for pomelo and local sweets — grab some to take with you before you set off back.

Which day to visit the museum

Chai Nat Muni National Museum is closed Mondays and Tuesdays. If you plan a weekend trip, the timing works out fine, but if your trip lands early in the week, swap the museum to a day it's open, or skip it for now.

Getting around and driving

  • A private car is by far the easiest way — the ruined temples are scattered across Phraek Si Racha sub-district, and public transport doesn't reach every spot.
  • From Bangkok — drive north on the Asia Highway (Route 32), about 2.5–3 hours to Chai Nat, then continue into Sankhaburi district.
  • Within the Mueang Phraek area — most temples are only a few minutes apart, with easy parking and plenty of space.
  • Motorbike — if you rent one it's a fun way to get around, but watch out for the sun and bring proper sun protection.

Food along the way

Sankhaburi isn't a town packed with famous restaurants, but the local food is tasty and easy on the wallet. Stick to the shops in the market and the ones where locals actually sit down to eat.

Noodles

Pa Sim Made-to-Order Noodles

A Sankhaburi shop known for its homemade fermented-tofu dipping sauce — rich, not too sweet, and easy on the wallet.

Made-to-order

Made-to-order shops around Sankhaburi market

Rice-and-curry and made-to-order shops near the market, open morning to evening — handy for a lunch break between temples.

Riverside café

De Best Café, Sankhaburi

A relaxed riverside café, good for a coffee break to close out the day before heading back to your hotel.

Making the most of Sankhaburi old town

  • Start with Wat Phra Kaew while the sun is still mild, since it's the spot where you'll walk around and take photos the longest.
  • Read the Fine Arts Department boards posted at each temple — they help you tell which era each stupa belongs to and make the visit much more interesting.
  • Dress respectfully, since several of these are still active temples with monks and worshippers.
  • Leave time to spare — there's no need to rush through every temple in one day. Pick the ones you really want to see and study them properly rather than just walking past.

Want the big picture for the whole of Chai Nat? Check out the full guide.

See the Chai Nat travel guide →

FAQ

Where is Sankhaburi old town in Chai Nat?

It's in Sankhaburi district, with the main cluster of ancient temples gathered in Phraek Si Racha sub-district, about 20–25 km from Chai Nat town — roughly a 30–40 minute drive.

Which temple in Sankhaburi shouldn't you miss?

Wat Phra Kaew is the highlight, with an octagonal stupa on a square base that many texts call the "queen of stupas." Next come Wat Mahathat with its carambola-petal prangs, Wat Song Phi Nong, and Wat Tanot Lai with its Sukhothai lotus-bud stupa.

Is there an admission fee for the ancient temples in Sankhaburi?

The cluster of ruined temples in Mueang Phraek are open-air historic sites you can visit free of charge. The Chai Nat Muni National Museum in town does charge admission: 10 THB for Thais and 80 THB for foreigners.

How many days do you need to do Sankhaburi justice?

You can see the old-town temples in a single day, but if you also want Chai Nat's signature temples like Wat Thammamun and Wat Pak Khlong Makham Thao, plus the museum, a 2-day, 1-night plan is more comfortable.

What days is the Chai Nat Muni National Museum open?

It's open Wednesday to Sunday, 09:00–16:00, and closed Mondays and Tuesdays. It sits inside Wat Phra Borommathat Worawihan in Chai Nat town.

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